From Factory P/B to Manual, whats needed in the pedal area

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by 55crownvic, Jan 24, 2016.

  1. 55crownvic

    55crownvic Member

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    might be going to manual brakes from factory P/B on a friends car, what is needed for a pedal? And do I need a different pedal support?
     
  2. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    You need the entire bracket and pedal from a non-power Maverick/Comet. Is this on a '75?
     
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  3. 55crownvic

    55crownvic Member

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    yep, its Pete's car
     
  4. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    Want an excuse to go to beautiful, sunny Florida? You need the one on the left,
    I just switched TO power steering, and power disc brakes, and I'm adding A/C. So I am using the one on the right.
    manual and power pedal assemblies 1.jpg

    All of the bolt holes line up nicely except the hole for the plunger rod is in a different place and will need to be drilled.
     
  5. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    And you will need a manual specific master cylinder. (it has holes for studs to go through instead of bolting to a booster.)
     
  6. Eastern Raider

    Eastern Raider Member

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    You now have drum brakes?
     
  7. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    I switched from manual 4 wheel drum to front discs/rear drum and added the power booster.
     
  8. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    It's a '75 Grabber with factory power front-disc brakes. He wants to go manual.
     
  9. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    I am curious as to why?
    Does he dislike stopping? Just kidding...But really, why?

    Weight savings for building a drag car?
    Big motor swap and needed more room under hood?

    My son's 65 Falcon had 4 wheel manual drums and it didn't stop worth a crap even with all new shoes and hardware and wheel cylinders. So,we upgraded to front discs, but did not add a power booster.
    IMG_20150301_122140.jpg

    It stopped much better with the disc upgrade than with the drums, but was still not good by modern car standards.

    dual chamber master cylinder.jpg

    My car originally came from the factory as a stripped down economy model with no options. I am building a cross country touring car and want the best brakes I can get my hands on. I thought it was a necessary upgrade to the safety of my car.

    This is what I took off my 75 4 door donor car for the swap:

    power brakes.JPG

    And also this magic piece:
    Maverick power brake shock tower brace.jpg
    The power brake shock tower brace.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. 55crownvic

    55crownvic Member

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    One of your guesses was correct.....he is intalling a 351 windsor with roller rockers, thus the taller valve cover and no room between the PB booster, so I am going to install an aftermarket booster and Maverick MC, if anyone is looking for the factory setup give me a shout, will have the booster/bracket/MC, the fugly tower brace, and the pedal/support for sale, this was a running and driving car before teardown this week, so it does work great.
     
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  11. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    going with a Geo Metro power booster?
    or maybe a hydroboost?
     
  12. 55crownvic

    55crownvic Member

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    going with a 7 inch aftermarket booster from ebay, have done several of these and they work great. Plus they fit real nice between the tower and firewall, with about an inch of clearance.
     
  13. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    I read a cool article about doing a Geo Metro booster on old Fords when I was researching brake upgrades for the 65 Falcon which has the shock towers and braces and space limitations Maverick owners are familiar with.
     
  14. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    What MC you use w/ the 7" booster? Are u able to reuse the OE brake rod? If so does it require any and modification?
     
  15. 55crownvic

    55crownvic Member

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    I will be using an original MC for a Mav, the booster mount studs are a little further apart than stock, so the holes in the firewall and bracket need to be widened, and also the center hole needs to be made a little bigger. I reuse the brake rod, and cut it to about 2" long, then weld it to a long nut that I get from Ace, then it will screw to the rod coming from the new booster, doing it that way makes the rod adjustable, not to difficult to do.
     

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