Exhaust is done

for the clicking, take off the hub cap and trim ring and see if it still clicks.

 

I'll try it. Do you think the hub cap or trim ring would cause the clicking only under firm braking? Something's wrong somewhere. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Is there a reason why you have initial timing set at 9 degrees? Seems a bit retarded.

 

if the drum is out of round it can cause a clicking as the shoes move across the backing plates.

 

I didn't know where to set it. Its a 302 HO. E7 heads with light porting shaved .005", '86 flat pistons, 600 Holley, Edlebrock Perf intake, HEI dist, Broader Perf Street/Strip C4, shortie headers, 3.00 rear, 205X70X14 tires. 87 octane. I advanced it till it showed some spark knock and pulled it back some. What initial advance would you set? I'll run 91 or 93 octane if it allows significant performance improvement.

I have an appointment for a dyno tune on Thurs next week.

 

It's possible. I had the drums turned at a good old machine shop that does them all day long. Any clues to look for to know if that's the problem?

Thanks.

 

OK, I did it ...

Dusted the tank, springs, brassy sway bar brackets, shocks, inner fenders, and anything else under there that looked wierd, with Chassis Black. The exhaust guy had already sprayed flat black on the down turns. Makes them just about invisible. (Even less visible when they're lined up with the tires. )

Since I had the car all covered with plastic, I also covered up the white radiator support so it wouldn't show thru the grill. It does look a lot better.

Whoops -- this camera angle shows some white BELOW the gravel shield. Oh well, another day ...

 

Looks gud my man. U don't mess around. I also hope to drive my car to Dearborn nx Roundup. I recently repainted my grille I blackout the parklight trim that was chrome and not in pristine condx.
I also cleanup and painted int/exterior of the park-light housings. I still have to take the grille out and paint the core support and replace some plastic and rubber piece I found missing. I had the parts ordered from AK and got them yesterday; I wanted go to a weekend show in Indiana, so I put it back together and will do it when I return.
Anyway, hpe u make Sil Springs this winter, a little far for me.
http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=71294

 

Higher octane gas is only an improvement if your engine needs it to stop detonation. Stock heads on a small block Ford, I'd have initial ignition timing at 12-14*, 35* total all in by 2800-3000 rpm.

 

I'll try it. Thanks.

 

Thanks. Saw your lights on the other thread. Nice.

 

Man I have been looking everywhere for any and all info I can find on shortie header pics and not sure but it sounds like I could use the pic under "very nice work...." but it is not there anymore. I looked thru his media galleries and did not see it either. If someone may have or saved it please post or send to me?

JerryD

 

Jerry,

I searched for that picture but came up empty. The car is long gone so don't think I can help much.

Jerry,

Wish I could help you but I've searched ALL my old photos and cannot locate that one. Car is gone. IIRC, the exhaust shop eliminated the collector and attached a new pipe with a nice S-curve to clear the Pitman arm. They also cut a tab off the bell housing and spacer plate.

Jim

 

Hey thats ok! I appreciate you looking!

JerryD

 

Jim,

Did you ever finish the truck you were working when you sold your Sprint? By the way, I am only a few hours away from you now. Move to Charlotte last year to be near my son.


Jim