Just finished installing a new electric fuel pump and got her back on the road for the first time in three weeks. Everything was going great! Got back to my house and let it idle for about 7 minutes and suddenly it died. The temperature was about 212, took a minute and got it fired back up. Still ran a bit rough and was sensitive on the throttle. The reason I went to electric was due to vapor lock causing these same problems (at least that was my best guess). Any suggestions on where to go from here? Kinda at a loss, still very new at engines but learning as I go. Thanks guys!
What fuel pressure does your carburetor require? What pressure is your fuel pump putting out? It's possible, you might need a fuel pressure regulator.
Would that affect it at hot temperatures? It only acted that way when the temperature reached about 210. But I have an edelbrock 1406 carb and this is my fuel pump http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8090-...F8&refRID=1XN0V71X5VNR6T44FCQ3#productDetails
the hotter the fuel.. the greater the expansion characteristics will become. electric pumps will generally put out a constant PSI at idle speeds vs a mechanical pumps output which may rise slightly as the pump arms speed increases. the higher the fuel level in the bowls.. the greater the tendency for fuel pressure creep and expansion to cause you issues. basically, less margin for error and further complications at hotter running temps. regulate and insulate to keep things more consistent. I would also be a tad concerned as to why your temps are getting so high as well. hope that helps EDIT; nm, I see you have no shroud in place. that'll surely do it with less air passing over fewer cores at standstill. A lower temp t-stat will help much of these issues and give you greater margin/more time till reaching those higher temps. might want to be sure spark timing is advanced enough at idle speeds too. Any less than about 25 degrees and you are leaving much on the table. I run upwards of 40 degrees or more at idle with a vacuum advance pot being pulled by full manifold vacuum and it makes a HUGE difference in running temps and light throttle cruise power/mileage.
That actually helps a lot thank you, I am currently running a 165 tstat. My original fan shroud broke and have been looking for a replacement, but haven't found anything so far.
Would it be wise to go below a 165 tstat? Also is there any places that sell reproduction fan shrouds?
next one down would be a 160° but I doubt it would be worth the hassle. The other issues are either causing or compounding the float height/vapor lock problems. timing advance at idle/low throttle angles is much more critical than most may ever realize. All the OEM EFI stuff runs well into the 40's not because they are EFI and ECM controlled.. but because that level of spark lead is better for mileage and helps clean up the combustion space. The higher emmisions created by heavy spark lead is circumvented by the CAT. Just be aware that on an uncatted motor, the NOx will go sky high with heavy ignition lead and the pipes will start to stink more. And not the stinky sweet gassy smell either, but the burn you damned eyes out of your head and give you migranes type of smell. Exhaust tip location and lack of interior cabin space leaks at the back of the car becomes more critical too. have no idea about the shroud.. other model specific Maverick/Comet experts could help you there
AutoKrafters sells repo shrouds at $150.00. You might be able to get one on Ebay, you'll have to investigate. My car runs 200-230 in the summer , 180 stat, w/ AC running -- never had vapor lock issue. I am running a mech. pump, if that makes any difference. I see you are running two fans, I am running one one puller elec fan and home made shroud.
I am considering running an electric fan, is it worth the hassle? How hard is the alt conversion? But it's weird honestly my car shouldn't run as hot as it does. Even with out the shroud I am running a 6 blade flex, a remote trans cooler, no ac, and water wetter. Kinda stumped here.
An old mechanic friend of mine advised that I remove the thermostat, that in Florida it is needed at much. Claimed that this will solve most of the problems, is this a wise idea?
I am running the elec fan cuz, I don't like a spinning fan that has the possibility for decapitating one, causing serious injury if you make the mistake of introducing a body part in it's path. Looks like you already have elec fan in front of the radiator "pusher". I don't see where removing that fan and going w/ one in "puller config." wud be an issue, since I am assuming the fan you have is operational and cud just switch wires to new setup. I don't see where 210 should cause vapor lock. If I had vp lock at that temp I wud be walking half the time. My fan is set to activate at 200. I never run my car w/0 T-stat. Others may differ.
Do you have a spacer under carb base? I have one inch phenolic/fiber spacer seperating carb from manifold. May also be a timing issue as Roberts stated. For the price of an AK shroud u cud go w/ puller fan and not have that spinning flex fan that has the ability to do serious damage. JMO
What electric fan setup are you running? But I do not have a carb spacer and as far as the timing I do not know off hand. When we were setting the timing, we couldn't get a good visual sight of the markings and had to set it by ear. I know not the best method but the engine runs fine, except when it reaches 210.
I am running Flex-O-Lite 118 low profile, 2500cfm at 18.5 amp draw, single speed. I wud get some paint on the crank balancer and set the timing properly, or see where the timing is set. You may not need a carb spacer. I don't think 210 is to much in 90+ temps, idling in traffic. I run 210 in summer idling in traffic pulling air thru a trans cooler and AC condenser and never had a vp lock issue. If you decide to go w/ elec. fan an running stock 55/65 amp alt., may not be enough to handle load and charge battery, esp, if you do lot nite driving.
