REDOING 1975; Need a mentor!

Just so you know...from looking at the pictures, I can tell the car has a lot of rust that one can't see. The car has lots of body filler in it covering the rust. All those wavy/bubbly areas: That is rust. Not that it is the end of the world...but you need to know what you are getting into.

 

what does under the battery tray look like?
that paint peel in front of the right rear tire is a concern...looks like it has been repaired before...

as before, let's get the body inspection done first...

 

You can live with the bondo while you fix the other stuff. Just lightly sand it and spray it with a spray can of matching paint. Just take your colour code from the vehicle identification off the door pillar. If you can't find it at your local store Expresspaint.com will have it.

 

Looks like a 76, or at least the grill? I agree with MOJO, I would save the drive train for last. The car needs to go stop and track first, but that is your business. All small block Ford 260s, 289s and 302's are the same dimensions until you get to the newer modular engines.

 

Didn't read mojo's post but he typically always gives good down to earth "veteran car owner advice" so I'll x 3 that same sentiment. And no mojo.. I didn't just call you old.. I just called you "experienced".

A potentially faster unfinished engined car that sits in the garage for too long isn't nearly as fun or enjoyable than a cooler looking car with a painfully underpowered motor that still gets it out on the roads for you and others to enjoy. Mule motors allow you to restore as you drive. Bigger and faster motors tie up more cash and leave it collecting dust until it's all back together.

 

Okay, still haven't gotten to the carpet yet or cowl. Been working with my son to tear down 302 we purchased. He is insisting that we need GT40p Heads. I purchased a 1988 302 roller cam engine, but see that it doesn't have gt40p heads. Is there a certain year range that would work to put them on or am I out of luck?

 

The title and VIN say 1975, but maybe someone has retrofit something into the car that I am unaware of?

 

I understand where you are coming from with the drivetrain and order. I am just working with my son on how he wants to go about it. It may have to catch some dust if we get to the point that our budget is met before we even get the seats fixed.

 

I need both rear quarters for this car. What is "good" condition and how much do you want for them?

 

I am also looking for both front Fenders. They are solid except for the part behind the wheels. All rusted through in that area. Is is cheaper to fab in new sheet metal vs. finding better fenders?

 

Gt40P heads would come on 1998+ Ford Explorer, but they do not fit the engine bay well. Instead buy 1996-1997 Ford Explorer gt40 heads.

 

So if I buy the 96-97 gt40p heads, they will match up on my 1988 block? Newbie here so I apologize for being naive

 

The big difference on those heads is the "P" designation. Revised spark plug angle makes header fitment nearly impossible. You want the earlier 96-mid97 "GT40" heads. They work with Maverick headers. The late 97-on add the "P" to the title.

 

Sorry---but my fenders have been sold-----I think you can buy the lower rear portion and weld -in---

 

if you fix the rust first...it will be.
"what mistakes can I avoid?"...
Fix THIS.....not THAT.

some young people see what it "could be" but don't have the experience to see the trip to get it there.