I have been trying to read all about it and have questions. I have never done suspension parts before. I have got a list of parts and need some clarifications. Also, lots of guidance. This car, I guess would be considered not even a daily driver. I do not plan on swapping engines, drag racing, etc. It will be driven in summer only and when ever I can type of deal, so I know I do not need anything high performance. It only has 59000 on it but all the rubber bushings are dry rotted, ripped or torn. Just breaking down my list: Upper Control Arms: Is it worth keeping or advantage to keep the original UCA and rebuild that? If I replace the whole thing as a unit I am looking at Upper Control Arm (MOOG RK621369). I am assuming I will need nothing else for the UCA. If I rebuild then: Upper Ball Joint (MOOG K8142), Control Arm Bushing kit (MOOG K8278) or Control Arm Shaft Kit (MOOG K8131) , Do I need Camber Adjustment (MOOG IS8243A)? If I go this route, Do I need to press in the bushings or anything? Lower Control Arms: Looks like I don't have a choice on this. Just replace its as an unit. (MOOG CK8123) I am going to assume if I replace it as an unit, then I do not need Lower Control Arm bushing (MOOG K8132) or anything else... Sway Bar: This is where I read, that I should use modern technology and use polyurethane bushings. (MOOG K700531). Sway bar frame bushings (MOOG K5227). Struts: I definitely read DO NOT USE POLYURETHANE here. So I am looking at rubber bushings (MOOG K8157) Springs: I am having difficulty in understand what I need for here. So educate me First, I would like to say, I would like to lower the front end a little or raise the rear a little. I just want to have a slight rake to it, nothing big, it just looks like it sits lower in the rear. SO... Can I buy spring to lower it? Cut the spring? What rubber bushings or insulators do I need to replace with this? Is it easier to raise the rear or lower the front? Spring Perch: Everyone says rollers, but like I said this is not a daily or drag car, etc. I read that Scott Drake has a set of perches. (Scott Drake C4DZ-3388-HP) Are these considered rollers? and Will they work? Shocks: Have not looked into those yet, but I have used KYB in the past and they seemed to work fine for me. I will tackle steering and wheel bearing in another thread and when time comes Also, the order in which to do this. My manual only tells me how to do each individual part and not all at once. Thanks in advance for the help.
In the last three years I've rebuilt two front ends, both my Comet & Cobra Jet use the same parts... since you have fairly long post, I'm adding my thoughts within your text...
I say stock parts you have listed, should work fine. I do recommend roller perches for improved ride quality. I did a complete front end rebuild two years ago; I say the rollers are worth the money and since you'll have the car apart, this is best time to do it. I have new KYB'S all four, I like em. Don't forget spring isolators. Lastly, I wud go with complete new up control arms -- getting the rivets out to remove ball joint PIA.
I re-built my front end last summer with the same list of factory style parts outlined above. I used Scott Drake non roller perches, and moog 8088 front springs, uncut. My car does sit lower in front.....any lower and I would have been sad. I have a 302 with iron heads. I have not driven it enough to have an opinion about roller vs non roller, and I still need shocks. I also have a small bumper on the front.
I agree completely with Everett, complete upper arm assemblies and roller perches. After using the roller spring perches first hand, I would only use rubber bushing ones on a factory correct non driven show car. Often when you replace all these components the car will initially ride higher in the front. If there is nothing wrong with the front springs, you may want to wait on replacing those until you see where the car settles. You did not mention replacing the rear leafs. If this is something you may do in the future you may also want to wait on the front springs until you see how a leaf replacement affects the ride height in the rear.
Krazy C: I didn't know how to really shorten it up with out making it harder to cipher thru all the comments. Steering will be next LOL! Thanks Mojo: Spring Isolators? Like I mentioned, I am confused on spring parts. Probably because I have never taken on off. I am assuming they sit on something "rubber" on the bottom and top, is that what you are calling "Isolators" Roller perches, Does anyone know if the ones listed are considered "roller"? (Scott Drake C4DZ-3388-HP) they are alot cheaper than the others I have found. Thanks Stumanchu: I will check out those springs. I can't say mine are bad (low miles) it is just a look I was after. Thanks Jasonwthompson: Great advice, I might just wait on the front springs. I have yet to look or even thought about the rear springs. LOL Thanks
I do not think Scott Drake offers roller spring perches, they are rubber bushings. The perches have 2 strips of rubber that the coil spring sits on. Spring isolators are also rubber, but mount on top of the coil spring. If you do replace the coil springs, definitely replace the isolators. They are inexpensive.
Those are not roller perches. Here is what they look like. I highly recommend them. I drive my car daily and there is a noticible difference in handling. http://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/
I'd sure love to hear a explanation of just how roller spring perches improve ride(if any thing I'd think rubber was better) or for that matter handling... The control arms, ball joints & strut rods(to a point) are the suspension points that must move when car is in motion... All the spring perches do is provide a pivot point for base of spring... So the rollers rotate a bit easier, at most there are only a few degrees of movement, I don't see that as a plus or minus... Has anyone swapped to roller perches on a otherwise fresh suspension?? My bet is the improvement noticed is from new control arms, ball joints etc... The big advantage(as I see it) in roller perches is likely getting a better quality product than the questionable off shore rubber units...
Tom: Read Opentrackers FAQ http://opentrackerracing.com/faq/ John explains how roller perches eliminate bind in rubber bushings, which in turn provides a smoother ride. I have had them for 4 years and even with my higher rate front springs (620 lbs), the ride is smoother. When I had OEM perches, ride was very harsh, well worth the price IMO. My whole front suspension have been "rollerized" with their products, along with Global West adjustable strut rods and Del-a-Lum rear shackle/front eye bushings on the rear leaf springs. Again, that made a huge difference in the back end, smoother ride (eliminated the bind from rubber bushings) and reduced, if not eliminated the lateral movement. I was going to install a panrod, but once I installed the Del-a-lum bushings, there was no need...... David
OK I agree with the idler arm, control arm & alignment statements... Still not convinced a rubber vs roller spring perch is going to make a noticeable difference on stock suspension vehicle... True rubber is some what stiff when new but soon settles into a pattern of rotating easily within normal suspension travel... For a race/track vehicle, I'd defiantly want them... I'll shut up now...
