bad ignition switch . when it does that check your posts on your coil . should have power on the the wire not going to the distributer with the key on
I agree with it being ignition switch problem, may be as simple as adjusting the switch which is controlled by a linkage rod that goes from key switch to actual ignition switch which is located on the steering column down by pedals. If you can run a wire from the battery positive post to the positive post on the coil and then start the car and it continues to run then problem probably lies in the ignition switch. Pretty common problem. Note that car will not turn off until wire going to coil is disconnected and switch may have to be replaced rather than adjusted. Positive side of coil wire is the side that does not have wire going to distributor
What confuses me is that it worked about 2 weeks ago, although I did take the switch out to inspect it at that time. I guess maybe the nuts holding it to the column loosened from me playing with it? It is the original switch, perhaps it finally corroded to the point that it's not working properly any more? The oil light comes on at a point before you turn it the rest of the way to engage the starter. How would I adjust the switch? Do I push it away from me while tightening it down or pull it towards me?
This thing is driving me nuts. I get about 5 good starts out of this crappy battery I'm using and then my day is over, I'm left to charging it for the rest of the evening
The rod should not have any play in it from when key is in the off position, at a guess I would say it should be away from you. I dont know if a person is able to take one apart to clean the contacts if they are corroded or burnt. Try moving it down a little at a time I am the kind of person that will attempt to take anything apart to see if it can be repaired and most of the time successful but I usually only do it I have the part in hand to fix problem
Disconnect the battery, try spraying some electrical contact cleaner into the switch, either turn the key on/off or disconnect the rod and manually slide the switch rod in and out. But if contacts are corroded/pitted, it maybe too far gone and replacing would be the next thing......... David
For the price of a new switch, not worth the hassle/headaches trying to figure out the problem w/ a 40+ year old switch. I had a problem w/ my car running-on in the Acc position; when I had the column out for steering conversion, replaced switch -- problem solved. Get a new switch and start from there -- May be all you need!
I had the exact same problem with a 1976 recently. I replaced the ignition switch with a known good switch. Did the same thing. Changed the starter solenoid.....problem solved.
I find it more interesting there is absolutely no reason the solenoid should keep engine from running... At least on a '76... On a '70 a bad ign switch can cause stall after cranking... The ignition resistor bypass provided by solenoid is why it starts in first place, at that point the ign switch takes over supplying voltage to coil... The bypass circuit is not in a '76...
I thought the same thing. I actually had to move the car (parts car), so I just kept cranking the car over so it would stay running long enough to move it. I then replaced the ignition switch. Did the same thing. On a whim I replaced the solenoid and everything worked like it was supposed to. I put the old switch back on and all was still good.
I'm having a weird problem. I'm trying to find a plunger style switch for this thing but all I can find for 1970 is the electronic tumbler. Mine has this kind of connector. I can't find it anywhere.