Hey All, With the weather finally warming up, my son and I have been working on the Maverick. Rebuilt front calipers last weekend, new fuel pump tonight. I want to get it running well enough to drive to the station (20 miles) for title transfer paperwork. Up and down the 0.1 mile drive, felt good. Idling pretty nice, chasing a few leaks. My son was pretty happy . The C4 feels like it’s hooking up good, definitely a few leaks though. Chris
Update and a couple of questions. We have the brakes in pretty good shape and drained/renewed the power steering (working well). We tried to "suck out" the rear end oil last night without success, so my first question. If I am careful, I feel I should be able to drill and tap a plug for the bottom of the differential as has been recommended. Is any spot better than another (obviously on the bottom to drain everything)? I played with the carb (appears to be stock 2bbl) some last night, the timing has been set to roughly 6 degrees BTC. The carb was set with both air mixture screws out 3+ turns which is significantly more than suggested. However, when I put a vacuum on the rear port and adjusted for max vac. and good idle quality, I ended up within a half turn of the original settings. This was a Colorado car and the carb had been worked on, don't know? As long as it drives well, I will leave it and check fuel consumption when we start driving more. Lastly (for now), the turn signals are running 1157s which is a common old light, is it correct? They are all working now, but the blink speed is VERY slow. Based on the clicking noise, the relay is under the dash and behind the steering wheel. Are they a go/no-go part, or could it be the cause of the slow blink? TIA, Chris & Gabe
You may be able to remove the bottom stud that holds the differential in, you could try double nutting it and turn the nut closest to the bottom and it may unscrew the stud. This will not get everything out but will get you a lot closer. As far as the blinker goes the flasher is usually a go or no go part but it might be the wrong flasher in it such as a heavy duty which will cause a slower blink due to the draw of amps of the bulbs. The heavy duty flashers are used a lot when vehicle is used for pulling trailers (mostly pick ups though) LED lights cause the slow blink problem as well. 1157 is the correct bulb
Actually that's not true... Both 1157 & 2057 have a 32 Cp filament for stop and signal... Both are 26.88 watts) For the running light, 1157 is 3 Cp(8.26 watt) while 2057 is only 2(6.86 watt)... Wagner has no listing for a 2056...
when I replaced the 1157s in my high/low fog lights I put the first 2057 bulb in and there was a noticeable brightness difference in the two...JMO maybe it was just old bulb/new bulb thing... here are the lower valance lights converted to fog lights.
The brake/signal filament is exactly same in both, it's the running light that's dimmer on 2057... I knew that from back in early '90s when I restored the lamp housings on my Cobra Jet... With one of each installed, the 2057 was noticeably dimmer... You're using the Brake/signal filament(and running filament combined?) for fog so considering equal usage there is no appreciable difference in the two bulbs... Yes bulbs dim with age , glass darkening(filament evaporation) and filament also increases in resistance with usage... For a regularly driven vehicle, it's no doubt a good idea to replace at least he brake bulbs every few years...
I have converted my tail-lights to LED's and my blinkers have not slowed; if anything they may be slightly faster.
