Steering Box Removal

Time to either rebuild or replace the manual steering box as it's getting pretty squirrely at speed and is not returning to centre like it used to. Likely to be done by the shop but I had a few questions.

Car is a V8, auto column shift.

-Does the drivers shorty header need to be removed along with the shock tower brace for removal?

-from the service manual it looks like you just need to pull pitman arm, unbolt from steering coupler and unbolt from frame - is that it?

At the same time I will have idler arm replaced and sway bar bushings replaced from PST - anything else I should consider?

Regards


I should add that I ask these questions because I am interested in learning as much as I can, there is so much lost if it's not documented somewhere and forums are still much better at this type of thing than facebook or discord.

 

Likely box needs serviced but adjustments can be made while installed.

Squirrely & not returning to center is probably lack of positive caster in frontend alignment.

No help on removal, I pulled mine for service when engine was out.

 

Find a shop that can check all your suspension components, upper/lower control arm bushings, spring perch bushings, tie rods, ball joints, shocks, wheel bearing, tires etc., worn out parts can all play a part in "issues". Have them check tire wear pattern/wheel alignment that can tell you alot too!
How much "play" do you have at steering wheel? How much do you have to turn before you notice front tire movement? Like Tom mentioned, steering box does have adjustment, but check everything else out before that.
Regarding steering box removal, you pretty well covered it, good luck!
David

 

Seems to be in spec for they set the machine for was aligned after roller spring perches and disc brakes installed.

 

Try using these spec's...........
https://opentrackerracing.com/tech-info/
David

 

When I rebuild my frontend(s), I'll dial in all the positive caster the strut rods will allow(roughly 4*). At that point rough in the toe, then go for ¾* of negative caster, finally reset toe for 1/8".

Note a high degree of positive caster will make manual steering stiff, on factory P/S it adds feel. I totally rebuilt the Comet P/S and added P/S to both of my Fairlanes.

 

Yep, if you're running radial tires you need way more positive caster than shown on your printout to get the steering to self-center. And the steering will become heavier if you don't have power assist. The settings on your printout would have been correct for old bias ply tires.

 

Sounds like they need to have another round on it.

I am still thinking of getting the steering box done given the age of car. So it sounds like I got the procedure right on removal, but has anyone done it with the engine still in?

 

Just hit me I have a set of '71 Shop manuals, unfortunately removal instructions are a bit vague.

Pertinent to this discussion, it says on SOME models may have to remove clutch linkage. Also on SOME 8-cylinder models, may have to lower exhaust system. I'll guess with headers something will have to be removed.

EDIT, I'll guess by looking at my rebuild picts you'll have to probably remove at least part of exhaust system. In the make you jealous dept, I changed out my Fairlane's box with long tubes, didn't have to remove anything.

 

I removed my box to replace it with Bogrenson box about 9 years ago; IIRC, removed Pittman arm, 3 bolts securing to frame , removed rag joint. I also removed steering column cuz had to modify it. You may not need removing column. I had long tube header at the time, didn’t hamper removing box.

 

Steering boxes do not really "wear out". I suspect you have the other issues as discussed and your steering box does not need a rebuild.

 

If used for long periods of time with inadequate lubrication(never serviced in 40-50 years) the gear and worm can both wear out. A simple clean, lubricate & adj won't fix those.

The Torino crowd are always looking for manual boxes because their originals are worn out. Those are subject to far more stress than P/S boxes. Seen several with adjustment down into lock nut and were still too loose. BTW Maverick and '68-'71 Torino use same box.

 

Going to tackle this from a few angles, again given how old things are and I don't really have an issue spending a few bucks here and there...
Steering box swap - Lares
Steering coupler - Lares
Sway arm bushings and end links - PST
Strut arm bushings - NAPA premium
Idler arm - PST
Revised Alignment per opentracker

Anything else I should consider? Uppers and lowers are still relativly new. Car got the roller perches when the crsp disc brakes went on last month.

 

Mine went out. Steering wheel just spun. Because of this and rust issues I parted the car out. I was lucky and made it home before it went completely out.

 

You may want to look at a roller idler arm, or not, since it is manual system. It may require less wheel effort if you max out the caster. In addition, if you need to replace the strut rod bushings, you may want to consider a delrin mono-ball bushing from Opentracker as opposed to rubber.