valve problems, need help

Discussion in 'Technical' started by loki1911, Mar 20, 2005.

  1. loki1911

    loki1911 Lucky

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    ok, so im trying to replace the valve guide seals, so i buy a valve spring compressor and compress the springs, but the clip just wont pop open, i have a 250 ci straight 6 and i just cant get it to come off even though its as compressed as it will get, any help? also there are little rubber pieces inside the spring that i can see that are completely shot, anyone know what these are?
     
  2. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I had the same problem. What I did was spray it real good with carb cleaner, then dump some Marvels Mystery Oil on it. Let it sit for like a day then sprayed some WD40 on it. Then I used a RUBBER hammer and whacked the valve from the combustion chamber upwords until the clips finally broke loose from the retainer. Don't beat on it to hard.

    You need to go ahead and replace those rubber seals also. Those are the valve seals. What little our car did smoke before, it completely stopped smokeing after I replaced those. I believe it was like $11.95 for a box of 12 at Auto Zone.

    I am not sure if you have the head off your engine or not like I did, but if you do not you need to be carefull not to drop a valve down in the cylinder. Did that with my old truck, and it was not fun trying to get it back up without pulling the head.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2005
  3. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Before you compress the springs give each of the retainers a few smacks with a rubber mallet. Don't try to kill them, just a few mild smacks which help loosen the keepers.
    If you are doing this with the head on the car you need to do one cylinder at a time.
    Use compressed air and an air hold fitting in the spark plug hole to hold the valve. Alternately you can place a section of rope in the spark plug hole and turn the crank by hand in order to hold the valves closed.
    Compress the spring and use a small screwdriver and a magnet to remove the keepers from within the retainer. Replace the seal and inspect each retainer and the keepers for wear and replace accordingly.
    Once done with all the cylinders it is a good idea to smack the reatiners once again to make sure the keepers are seated correctly.
     
  4. big_fordsrule

    big_fordsrule Member

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    Make sure your face is not over the valvetrain when popping the valves, I have seen people do this and have the springs let go and hit the roof!! I use a small pick and a speaker magnet close by to remove retainer locks on the engine.. Good luck and be careful...
     
  5. Wes

    Wes Maverick Police Dept.

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    Just checking...are you using a compressed air adaptor to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinders when you remove the springs? If you haven't, run out and get one. You drop a valve down the cylinder, and you're removing the head.
     
  6. loki1911

    loki1911 Lucky

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    i already removed the head anyways because the head gasket was blown, ive got head and all off of the block. i got a few of the retainer clips free but now my problem is even though the whole valve assembly is out the valve guide wont budge, i bought new ones to replace them in case they were bad but the old ones wont come out, i can't really tell if theyre bad or not though
     
  7. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I'm fairly positive that the valve guide has to be pressed out and the new one pressed in by a machine shop. I don't think changing the valve guides is something your going to do at home. :huh:
     
  8. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    as jamie said the guides need to be installed by a shop. if the head blew a gasket you might want a shop to rework the head...they can mill the head to make sure it is flat..also you will need harden valve seats if the head is an early one...jmo...frank...
     
  9. JeffScoggins

    JeffScoggins A.k.a. Conan Jr.

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    Valve Job

    I just finished my head from a 200ci. Ain't she purdy?
     
  10. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    it looks great...but.. i try not to get paint on the inside of the head..as where the springs are...it comes loose and clogs up the filter, or stops up the oil pickup screen...or stops up a lifter..i put a valve cover on before painting :yup: i also sand any paint off that gets on the "head gasket " side of the head...you need a clean surface for the gasket...another thing i do when painting a head is put an old set of spark plugs in and bolts in any holes to keep paint out of the threads . i cut a gasket to put over the "stat" mounting hole and put bolts in for the threads..that way paint want get into the water system and clog up the rad.
    eastwood makes a paint just for the inside of motors...it is to make the surface slick for faster oil return..has anyone tried any?...frank...:bouncy:
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2005
  11. cdeal28078

    cdeal28078 Member

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    I think that paint is called Glyptol but not sure of the spelling. We use to use it inside elctrical generators as an insulating paint. Very good stuff.
    clint
     
  12. dmhines

    dmhines Dixie Maverick Boy

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    I agree - put an old valve cover on when painting - all that paint is gonna wind up in your oil filter. I never really noticed but are the intake runners painted blue originally?
     

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