I need some help......What vacuum lines are necessary? After I took a few pics of where everything goes I took all the lines off. thought it would be easier to start from scratch! Here goes! Getting ready to change out the intake to an edelbrock performer and clean up the mess of vacuum lines that are in the wrong spots and plugged with screws! In the pic.... #1- I have absolutely no idea what this is. There was a golf tee plugging it up. #2- I am assuming that these go to the transmission, right? #3- I am assuming this is the main vacuum source. Now, where do the transmission lines connect to? I am not putting the EGR valve back in, so I think that will eliminate a few lines. Also, I have an AC car, but I took the AC out. I would like heat, but for now I just want to just run right when I get it all back together
Just a guess........1 to dist for advance, 1 to tranny, 1 to power brake booster, 1 to A/C vacum hookup, trash the rest!
1. Gas tank vent line. Yes...you can probably leave it open....or buy a piece of hose, plug it into that nipple, and plug the other end into a charcoal canister (yours is missing). 2. Yes.....those are going to the tranny. Not sure why there is two of them. 3. Yes....main vacuum source. If you want your heater to work....you need to hook up those hoses coming out of the big black plug on the firewall...right next to where you wrote the number "1". You also need to hook up that black think that looks like a soup can. That is your vacuum canister.
When you buy the Performer intake, get it without the EGR, and get rid of ALL vacuum lines. Them all you will need is a line from the center of the carb to the valve cover, one from the driver side nipple on the carb to the distributer, and one from the manifold to the transmission (controls shifting, I think) and T it to the one that goes into the firewall (controls the heater and A/C flaps). Throw away the canister, the EGR, and all other little tubes and lines. Plug them on the manifold an run it. I will attempt to add a picture for you.
That should be all you need to run, just remember to get the nonEGR performer. Hopefully this is legal in your area. In Texas, anything older than 1978 and they dont test or even look for emissions modifications. Hope that helps.
That helps a lot!! Thats Scoop! I did buy the non-EGR intake. I knew doing away with all the emissions was the way to go Paint should FINALLY be finished tomorrow, so I can start bolting all the new toys on I'm just glad I know where everything goes now! Now all I need are the fittings for the heater hose and the vacuum lines and I'll be set! Thanks again!
craig.. you just solved a dilemma for me... i have been racking my brain to figure out why my heat didnt work... (dont need it now but...) now i jsut gotta figure out what goes to where... pulling the motor anyways but still.. thank you
You will need to keep the vacuum canister (soup can) in order for the heater to work. Otherwise, if you have the heat on to the "floor" position...when you hammer it....the loss of vacuum will cause the heat to switch to "defrost" until you regain enough vacuum to operate the heating system. Not a real big deal.....but that is what the canister is for....to store vacuum. My station wagon has two or three big soup cans for this purpose.
Craig, I took off my canister (I need all the room under the hood for functional engine components) and never noticed the heat switching to defrost. Of course, with less than 250 HP, I may not really be "hammering" it enough for this situation to occur. Interesting, though, in Texas, I rarely use the heater. If the heat is on, it is typically on defrost to keep the fog off the windshield.
I am assuming that you still have all the factory AC stuff in your car and nobody swithed it over to a manual heater box. If you have it on defrost all the time...you wouldn't notice it switching if it was the factory AC/heater box....as defrost is the "default" position when there is a loss of vacuum.
