Got done with the Granada front disc swap today. Did a search on the forum and just like was posted - I had to use the Granada outer tie rod ends too. I tried the original Maverick tie rods but the taper was too narrow or too tall because the cotter pin was completely above the castle nut when all was torqued down. Now comes the big question....what master cylinder to use? I now have 4 wheel disc brakes with the Granada's up front and a GM 10" disc conversion on the rear. I was using the stock 4 wheel drum master cylinder with the disc rears. They really did not work too well - but I only drag the Maverick so it didn't matter too much. I'm thinking something like a mid 90's Mustang? Any thoughts? Cleaver
I have 4 wheel disc's on mine, using the stock( and original) master cylinder. Car was a front disc brake car to begin with. Works fine. Dan
I don't think you need a different master cylinder (if you're using the Disc brake M/C). Just get an adjustable proportioning valve, and everything should work fine...
I just pulled the Granada master cylinder so I will have a core to turn in. A trip to Auto Zoo tomorrow to get a new one. I think I will install the Granada MC and adjustable prop valve for now. I added an adjustable prop valve and rear disc on a FOX body a few years ago and it worked pretty good. Just thought I would throw the question out there. Maybe someone had stumbled on something else. As far as the Mustang MC - there is a couple of mid 90's years all the Fox guys change to when going 4 wheel disc. Going to have to research that one a little more. Thanks for the input guys. Cleaver
Something you should be aware of is that the push-rod on the Granada master cylinder may be too long, which will result in the pedal being way too high. I bought 2 M/Cs, one drum one just for the shorter push-rod, and one disc-brake one. I didn't know about adjustable push-rods back then...
Well, here is where I am...... T.L you were right about the rods- I bought a cylinder for a 76 Maverick with manual brakes. It came with a push rod that was exactly 1/2 inch longer than the rod that was in the car with the drum cylinder. Mocked it up just to see and the pedal was almost into the dash. So I will be using the 76 Maverick master cylinder with the push rod from the old drum brake. The depth of the plunger to the top of the boss on both the drum and the disc measure the same (1.420"). Just for information, the Granada MC has a little taller boss on the back of the plunger that makes the depth of the plunger to the top of the boss 1.650". It doesnt look like this would affect the fit of the cylinder..but the boss on the Granada does not have a groove for locking the rubber rod boot. Also just another note, the size of the brake line fittings on the disc Maverick, the Granada, and the drum Maverick are all different. Not a big problem because I have to do some plumbing for the line lock. Cleaver
I knew the fittings were different between disc and drum M/Cs, but I did not know that the Granada and Maverick disc M/C fittings were different. What I want to know is how to remove a push-rod from a manual M/C after it's been installed...
I think the mustang guys use the SVO master cylinder when they do 4 wheel disk brakes. I think they have a manual cylinder also.
Got the old drum prop valve gutted and the new tubes bent with the right size flare nuts installed. Should be able to stop by the local race shop tomorrow and get an adjustable prop valve and be ready to go. T.L. - getting the rod out of the master cylinder is one of those things I stumbeld on a while ago. If you pull straight out it is real hard if not impossible to get out. That little triangle shaped spring digs in. If you pull out on the rod with a little pressure and work it in a circle (not turn or twist) it usually walks out after a couple of motions. First time I did this I had fought with the thing for several minutes - gave up - threw it on the bench and did something else. Couple of days later I threw something else on top of the cylinder and it hit just right and the rod fell out on the floor. After I saw what the spring looked like it made sence how it could have done that. Still looking on the other MC's (just in case). SVO master cylinder ....could be right. I see a lot of Ranger/Explorer cylinders used on street rods. They have a larger bore compared to the 15/16 " for our cars. Ranger would definately have more volume to push but it would definately increase pedal effort. May have to go that way if the pedal travels too far. Couple of days will tell. I'll keep everyone posted. Cleaver
Thanks Cleaver. That's good information to have. It's good to know that next time I need to replace the M/C, I won't have to buy 2 different ones. There's always something new that one can learn on this site...
i tell you the best investment a guy can make on doing a 4 wheel disc set up, it may sound crazy as hell but get you a dodge truck master cylinder for about an 85 D-100 half ton truck, it is the exact same as a wilwood they sell in jegs it had a 1-1/16 bore, and works very well on both my mustang and my bro's maverick, the only mod made to the master cylinder is you will have to enlarge the mounting holes to mount it to the firewall to i think it was a 3/8 it aint much at all,
