Hey Dan.... ...you tried making a diesel out of the other one, why not try some air brakes on this one?! It's getting old isn't it? Don't worry, we will forget some day. Seth
The steering column itself is not removed, just the support bracket that bolts it to the underside of the dash. I know people who have done the swap and they said it was a b!tch but do-able. I attempted the conversion back in 1990 and ended up just going with manual discs instead, mainly because I didn't want to deal with drilling holes in the proper location of the firewall for the booster to fit. I had the bracket and everything else installed when I aborted the idea. On a lesser note, I think it "looks" better under the hood without that funky brace on the driver side. I still have the one from back then and it is for sale because I know I'll never use it...
I agree. If you can afford it, I am convinced that aftermarket power brakes are the way to go for Mavericks and Comets. The power brakes on these cars was an after-thought to begin with, so it's a cheesey design that barely fits (Ford did not originally plan for power brakes on these cars so they didn't make room for it in the original design). Go with aftermarket power OR stick with manual disc. In ANY case, get rid of the drum brakes up front...
I have a question I have manual disc brakes on my 77 maverick and I have 76 maverick that has power disc brakes. do I still need to change the tierods and so on.....need help..
ok I have disc brakes on the car already if I add the booster do I still need to change the spindles, and so on ......
No. No change is made to the brakes themselves at all. You need all of the other parts previously mentioned...
do all these parts need to chaged Booster + MC + Spacer Power Brake Pedal Prop Valve and Lines to MC Hard lines from MC to Hoses Spindles, Calipers, Backing Plates, Lines, Rotors, Hoses Outer Tie Rod ends Funky Shock Tower Brace
Did you say you already have disks? If so, Your car already has the correct prop-valve, tie-rod ends, hard lines, hoses, etc. To convert to power, you need the booster, the entire brake pedal bracket that also holds the steering column in place, the M/C, booster, pedal, tower brace, and those little short lines that go from the M/C to the prop-valve (or simply cut and re-flare the ends of yours for the proper size fittings). You will need to cut some new holed in the firewall for mounting the booster and the different location of the push-rod...
