That is the wire I am looking at, and yes, I have a buzzer. Actually, it is nice to have that fuse out, so I don't have to listen to all the buzz. If I get into that area, I will wire past the buzzer if I can. Does it only go to the driver door, or is there a separate wire for the passenger door?
It would be nice if the buzzer was the problem. I have always wanted to disconnect it anyway. I spend so much time upside down under the dashboard, keys in ignition, legs hanging out the door, and the damned buzzer going off! Is the buzzer in-line with the dome light, or just on the same circuit? I would like to keep my lights if possible. But if the lights and buzzer keep giving me a hassle, I could easily live without them both.
Are you using a digital or analog meter? Maybe your not setting it up right. Set it up and turn on the parking lights and see if you get a reading. Dosent really matter what it is as long as you can verify your set up is correct. Also if you have one of those radios with a memory hot wire, it will draw current although it should be real low. Probably less than 5 miliamps. Current is constant in a series circuit which is what you have from where one battery wire connects to the other. From there it is all parellel circuits. Therefore it dosent matter if you tap your amp meter on the positive side or negitive side.
The Buz Can Be Dis And The Lites Still Work Go To Wiring Page And Look At The Circuit Its The Red /pink Wire And Grds Thru The Key Switch
Thats What I Was Looking For Now I can see how everything wired up. I am guessing that the problem is in the buzzer, which is coming off anyway, or the driver door switch, which powers the dome light and is hooked to the other door switch and also the headlight switch that activates the dome light. Come to think of it, that headlight/dome switch has always acted kind a strange...If i turn it half way it lights up full strength, then goes dead, then if I keep going, it gets strong again. Might be where my problem lies. Either way, that diagram gives me a much better chance of narrowing down my problem. Did I mention that I hate working on electrical?
yea I was going to suggest that if you had a newer stereo, with the clock , an memery it will pull juice all the time ,, Oh an Thanks MAV. for the series / parelell circuit, thing
My new 250 watt Pioneer has the memory and all that and the car has set for over 2 weeks before and fired right up. If your radio pulls enough power to drain the battery, somethings wrong.
I don't currently have a stereo. That is the main reason I was worried about battery drain. Nothing is (or should be) running. Again, too busy with paperwork today to check out the door switches and buzzer. Probably won't get a chance until Saturday, the way things are lining up this week. Work Sucks!
just trying to thing of things that would lite the tester up / show up on voltmeter as a draw , the stereo would be one thing to disconnect, so it didnt show a draw during the test , your rite it shouldnt kill a battery , same as a clock would show a constant draw.
GOT IT!!! It was the damned door buzzer. Of course that was the last thing in that circuit I checked. Mine was nowhere near the radio, but on the top of the underneath of the dashboard on the far passenger side, actually plugged into the metal of the right pillar. Since I had to take out half the dashboard, I went ahead and lubed up my far right vent, and put all the little plugs back into the runner so they all opened and closed together.
