Disconnecting muffler inlet pipe from exhaust manifold

While preparing to pull the engine (and only the engine) I stumbled onto a problem. I have a 302 V8, with manual transmission (on the steeringwheel) and no power brakes, powersteering or AC.

I had no problem with the bolts on the muffler inlet pipe on the passenger side, nor with the lowest bolt on the driver side. However I do not see how I can remove the top bolt on the driver side. It sits right next to the manual steeringhousing and the clutch linkage.

Is there any trick or tool that would allow access to this bolt? What is your experience in this when pulling an engine?

 

I Have recently had to go through what you are doing now, the best way to do this is to use an acytalyne torch and just cut the nuts off the studs, being VERY carefull not to hit the lower exhaust flang(the part that slides up the exhaust pipe) of course once you get the engine out, you must put four new studs into the manifolds, but this worth it in the long run, because even if you could get a wrench on the nuts, odds are that the nut will round off or break.

 

LightBlue70Mav, that is not an option for me. I can get a 5/8" wrench around it from the top, but that leaves insufficient space for loosening it. Using a torch in such a narrow space would certainly damage other things. I do not plan to wreck my car (which is fine now) just to remove the muffler inlet pipe. There has to be a better way.

 

Is it possible to get a really long extension up in there? I know it's not a Mav, but on my truck I used a 3 foot long extension with a breaker bar to get the bolts loose from the bottom.

Make sure you spray plenty of PB Blaster on the bolts and give it plenty of time to soak in. I can guarentee you if you don't, either you won't be able to turn them or you will snap off the studs.

 

hi Jamie, I do not have PB blaster but I did spray it with WD40 (one has to use the tools available ...). Here is an image of the bolt I'm having problems with due to limited space to move it. I did manage to move the bolt a fraction of a turn, so it is probably possible to get it loose all the way. My problem is space.

I can not seem to turn the bolt enough to allow me to reposition the wrench. Using a ratchet is impossible because it is too big.

 

Myself, I would get a socket extension with a wobble on it, that will give you angle benefit. WD-40 has its place in the world, but not in this situation. Find a better penetrant and let it soak for 24 hours. Heck engine oil soaked on that part will do you better than WD-40. Also, if you used a propane torch you could get enough heat to that to get the job done. Also, the knowledge of knowing you wont sacrifice anything else in the process. The quickest way would indeed be taking a torch, getting it cherry red and taking the sucker off.
Dan
ps remember if you do soak it then use a torch, you will have fire for a bit.

 

Try using a stubby combination wrench or different boxed wreches(try a flex-gear wrench)......

 

Looks like a special tool would be a solution so I will look around for that. Would taking of the clutch equalizer bar work? How do you do that? Is it fixed to the frame or the engine? I do not see any bolts.

 

I have used really long extensions with the wobble end. I have also taken the manifold bolts out and pulled the motor without the manifold.

 

If the shoulders of the nut rounds off from being frozen you will have to consider the next step in the attempts to get the pipe loose.
I don't know if you Mex built is any different that US built but a small heating head tip on a torch to heat the nut red then put your wrench on it should do the trick.

 

Hey Gert,another special tool is a small nut splitter that can be purchased at most auto parts stores....just cut the nut off and once the motor is out,replace the attaching stud/nut,,,,just remember to do this before you go back with the motor.....Hotrod-Daddy

 

In my experience, WD-40 will do nothing except help you round off the nut.

I would think if you can get Wd-40 over there, you would also be able to get PB Blaster?

 

An air ratchet might work. It doesn't need any space to turn, but requires a little more space than a regular ratchet to get on the nut. I use mine for stuff like that all the time. Its a great tool to have but you have to have a compressor.

 

Remove the "Z" bar, give yourself some room to work!

 

What is the "Z" bar ? Is it the clutch linkage?