The mustang II swap is pretty far along. Need to finish up the strut rod attachment and modify a pair of 67 Camaro drag shocks to fit and it will be wrapped up. Turned the attention to the motivation. 429 is bolted to the transmission and hovering. Had to cut and patch a small wedge into the stock Mustang II cradle to get good clearance with the FOX oil pan. I can NOT use the tall valve covers without re-locating the master cylinder. Looked at offsetting the engine in the bay. Just too much. With stock valve covers the engine sits really well. There is about an inch and a half clearance with master cylinder and heater fan clears as well. Going to have to break into the kids play dough and see if the stock valve covers will clear the roller rockers with a double gasket. Cleaver
The paper tube hood scoop is part of my youth. I grew up in a not so prosperous part of the country. The plastic paper tubes hit the area in the early 80's. By mid 80's you would see a dozen cars at the track running them. Oldschool racer saying....."shine don't make the time". Once the bugs drop through the venturi on a 850 Holley, they have no idea if they have been sucked in by a $250 B&M tripple plated scoop or a paper tube. I believe the bikers call it SUCK, BANG, BLOW. If you look close there is another go fast for cheap mod on the paper tube. There is a universal windshield washer pump mounted on the back with a hose through the top. On top of the carb is a modified squirter from a 2 barrel autolite carb. A micro switch is mounted to the carb accelerator pump set for 3/4 throttle. There you have $10 water/alky injection that lets the motor live at 10:1 compression with a short duration cam and 38 degrees ignition lead without spark knock. Cleaver
Why not move the master just a bit? Or how about the tiny little masters used on modern small cars? The ones that are dual action aluminum, but only have a single plastic resavoir on top. I have seen the small masters used with the Geo brake booster on Stangs before. Not quite for the same reason as squeezing in a BBF, but for clearance reasons none the less. Looks good. Dave
hmmm, ive heard of race planes doing something similar for anti knock. if they arent power assist id move the cylinder or get the smaller one or both.
Cleaver are you sure you have the right pan?? it should start with an E7 part# if the pan you have is from a van it will not set in as low and you have to notch the cross member(been there done that, bought a different pan,welded it back the way it was )but yes to mount the tall covers the master has to move over and up. (doing that to mine this winter)along with the freshening of the drive train. looks like your gettin there
Why not just move the master cylinder inside the car? Floor mount pedal kit with the reservoir under the floorpan.
Keep the suggestions coming.....I'm done worrying about the valve covers. I clayed the roller rockers to stock valve cover and single gasket. With the rollers rockers I have I can get .410 lift on the intake side at the cam. My cam is only .330. A double rubber gasket will let me run intake lift at the valve close to .700. Plenty of room all the way around. Whew....dodged a bullet. Master cylinder I have is out of 96 Mustang non power 4 wheel disc. It is a small aluminum cylinder with a plastic resevoir. I've heard about the GEO cylinder but never looked at one. Thanks for the tip...I'll have to look for one next time junkyardin' just to have on the shelf for set-up purposes. Inside the firewall or under the floor resevoir is not in the budget this year - no mas dinero. Going to have to wait on that one. Robert - the pan I have was advertised as a FOX swap. Not sure what it really is but it clears the windage tray. I'll have to look at the number. Thanks for the tip. I'm pretty happy with the cradle notch. 1-1/4 clearance on the rack and pinion gives me exactly 4-1/2 degrees drive shaft angle. Good enough. Hopefully the engine mounts will be done tomorrow. Cleaver
Cleaver, I also had to notch the Xmember for pan clearance. I really didn't HAVE to, but it made it a bear to remove/install the engine with it still in one piece. I cut a chunk out of the center and braced it back up with a piece of 1 5/8" tubing. Plenty of clearance now. But then again, I had to cut/remove/rebuild the firewall, space the rack forward about an inch, and mod the oil pan. All kinds of clearance problems pop up when you move the motor back as much as I did.
Here's all my Dyno Don pictures. Hope they help! Didn't see a master cylinder, maybe they didn't use brakes back then? -Ken
I knew it could be done! That car has a Stang subframe with B429 towers... The towers are easy to spot, but the way the front tires set so far apart gives the Stang subframe away. Sorry for the highjack... I am just happy to see that done, about 40 years ago! Dave
