I would like to upgrade my 302 to a little higher performance, I know by looking thru the Summit Racing catalog I want a Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and the 600 carb, I know you guy's were talking about the electronic ignition upgrade for about 75.00 bucks, would I want change the distributor as well with more of a performance one, I will have about $900.00 to spend and my mechanic friend will help me install these items. Any suggestions appreciated, Marty
if you are wanting to use the pertronix upgrade from points kit, then you will not want to change your distributor except with the same kind. if you arent set in your ways yet the newer 302 electronic distributors are good to go to and you wont need a special box for that either just the one that goes with that distributor. if you do a search there are a couple of posts on how to do this conversion. a stronger coil is the really important part of that, more important than the mallory racing boxes. id say change the cam if you can, should be in your price range even with the gasket set and timing chain set.
You will feel the difference in the drivers seat with a intake/carb change like you are thinking. You will probably not feel the difference in a different distributor over lets say a pertronix. jmo... change of camshaft will make it seem like a different car. All depends what you want. I say do um all, it is in your budget parts wise. Just depends on how much your mechanic friend is willing to help you out on. Dan
First thing I would do is put on a set of Hooker 6901 headers, along with an X pipe, free flowing mufflers and at least 2 1/4" (preferably 2 1/2") exhaust pipes.
If you have the original 75 ignition, you have a good ignition. No need to change!!! Waste of dough. Always start with the exhaust. A set of headers, duals, decent mufflers (at least turbos, if not better), and an H or X pipe. 2.5" mufflers 2.25" to 2.5" pipes H pipe gives nice sound and better all around power than without. X pipe doesn't sound as good IMO, but adds a tiny amount of power over H pipe. 1.5" to 1.625" primary headers. Beware that headers generally do not work with a column shifter. Power steering requires the slave cylinder be dropped with an aftermarket bracket (inexpensive). Exhaust mods, especially the headers, give: More horsepower. More torque. More rpm. More fuel economy. (one of few perf mods to do this) Better sound. Better engine cooling. (if you don't get coated headers) ... which can allow more timing, more compression, or lower octane fuel. After these mods... Do the 4v aluminum intake and carb. Get a book on the carb that you use. Read it, learn it, live it, love it. Holleys are the best IMO, but whatever carb you get will always run better if you learn how it works inside and out, and how to supertune it. Good luck Dave Btw: Also consider a little more gearing than stock. Combined with a limited slip diff, this mod alone can make your car feel faster than all of the mods I listed, combined.
You've never heard mine. Since all mine are manuals, I dont know for sure but if they work around the clutch cross shaft, it should be ok for the automatic linkage. I'm sure if it interferes, it wouldnt take much to make it work.
Someone made it work recently. It does not work without tweaking. I guess a search for the post would be in order if someone was interested. It would NOT ever work with 3 on the tree... Dave
upgrading the grabber My car has the original 3 speed on the floor, also has dual exhaust already, the only bad thing/good thing is that when I took it in a few years back, I had to have a new Cat. converter put on, and new glass packs on the back, still has great sound, I wish I would have known my friend then It would have had headers, but after spending about $550.00 I'm not going to take them off soon. thank's for all your tips, I am really hoping to have it running good and if things work out trying to get to Nationals in Kentucky just to say I did it once, anyway thanks again. Marty
dont get the performer intake... i have it and it is limited... i would suggest getting the edelbrock RPM manifold or a Weiand Stealth. i have the 600 carb and you might need to jet it up a bit, depends on your application and what you want to do with it... i agree with the exhaust and headers... change the intake and carb.. and you will be grinning from ear to ear on the first outing... good luck
Did your car come stock with a cat? Does your state require you keep it? (I know they do, but do they check ) The Performer is a really soft intake. Too soft IMO. The RPM didn't float my boat either. The only dual planes that I have ever liked were the Stealth and the F4B. I think either of those would feel better to you, especially if you ever did any gear changes. The Stealth is available new. The F4B either has to be sourced used, or you could get the modern version which is sold by FMS at a sky high price. If you have any dough left, you should seriously look at a tiny jump in gear... If you are stock, you have either a 2.79 or 3.00. Swapping to a 3.40 would surprise you... A 3.40 with T-lok, and no other mods to what you have today would be night and day. Add the 4v and she will rock pretty good, for a street car. Dave Edit: If the car is a daily driver and you need to watch fuel usage, remember this... A 100 lb decrease in weight is equal to 10 rwhp or one tenth in the quarter. That is a solid power gain without actually gaining power! Water weighs 8 lbs a gallon, so keep the washer bottle empty, or delete it. Gas weighs 6 lbs a gallon, so keep the tank only 1/4 full when you intend to go fast. Spare tire, jack, back seat, speaker boxes, and all the junk some folks leave lay in the floorboards add up fast.
