just curious if anyone knows how rough a motor will idle with a comp cam in it the specs are dur 274/286 lift 519/523 this is the cam i have for my car and i was just wondering if anyone knows how rough it will idle and its a comp xtreme energy cam hydraulic lift
yes it will be a rough idle i have the XE256H in mine.. it has a .484 lift... and its kinda got a slight lope to it... the XE264H is my next cam... 512 lift both sides.. and i hear it is a rough idle.. the only prob with yours.. make sure you have the heads clearanced with clay before starting it.. stock heads may not clear... but i am not positive on that.. i would double check to make sure but it will be a good cam as long as you have decent heads and a nice intake and carb good luck
the bottom end is stock and everyone that i have talked to has said that i will have plenty of clearance i have an edelbrock performer rpm intake, hooker headers, that cam, and a c4 tranny with a 2500 stall i'm hoping it'll do alright
the motor is a early 90's roller motor with about 40,000 miles on it i bought it from my uncle i already had the cam which is not roller if not i would have bought a roller cam for it
That's the cam I'm running! Very cool cam...Idle is pretty rough but sounds really good...tons of torque and pulls strong up to 6200rpm. This cam has proven very streetable to me and can be driven everywhere..and yet will make good power(12.30's in the quarter)...of course mine has a good pair of heads and ...well...351cubes. About as much as I would go in a daily driver with some racing.
do you think the combination that i have will do pretty good and also do you know for sure that i will have plenty of clearance for the valves
Everyone has different opinions on how rough they like there engines to run. Personally I like it in mine..but I know some car people who would not like it on a daily basis....so it depends on what you can put up with really. Some like more but most I think will prefer less. As for the valve clearance..always...repeat always check clearances and not just at TDC but at as many points as you can. I had one cam that cleared close..but hit as I slowly rotated it...so always check(very very cheap insurance)
i can turn the motor by hand and they don't hit atleast not that i can tell how can i check that to be sure
Check out CompCams web site for instructions: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf ...it states to remove the head and use modeling clay but I left my heads on and replaced one set of springs with very very light springs(easier to push on) and checked them with a dial-gauge. Someone else on here may have another idea..but thats how I checked mine. Your stall will work..but a 2800-3000 would be about perfect...and with 4:11 gears, some traction and a good carb it should run mid to low 13's easy!
I do the same thing with lightweight valve checking springs and a dial indicator. Measure intake and exhaust valve clearence every 5* from 20* BTDC to 20* ATDC. Grabber 71 is right, piston TDC is usually NOT the point where the piston and valves are closest together. When the piston is at TDC on compression stroke the valves are closed, on exhaust stroke one is starting to open while the other is almost closed.