I'm going to be running an '89 roller with a set of slightly worked E7TE HO heads. I was looking at the ford F303 cam, which is .512/.512. Does anyone have any experience with these heads, if so, do you think I will be overcamming them?
Yes. Thats alot of cam for those heads, but it will work. Get some GOOD springs though, or you will float/drop the valves. Check piston to valve clearance too, as that cam has alot of duration. I would just run the stock cam and maybe get some 1.7 rockers. It will make just as much power(probably more down low) and idle like a kitten.
I have 6cc valve reliefs in my KB flat tops, so I'm not too worried about clearance, though I WILL check it. I don't have any power stuff, just an alternator to run, so I'm not worried about the idle either. Maybe the B303 or E303 would be a better choice.
I ran the e-303 with stock heads, though I had trick flow high lift springs. The car didnt really make any more power that I could tell, though the overlap/duration did let me run 87 without pinging...I really wouldnt bother with a cam unless you get some good heads. It will sound cool and all, but it wont make enough power to justify the cost and driveability issues IMHO. Been there, done that. Again, just my .02. EDIT: Even the b-303 with its mild lift will KILL stock springs. A friend of mine broke 2 of his stock springs right after he stuck a b cam in his car. I know of a few others who dropped valves running aftermarket cams with stock valve springs. Since I want to keep harping on the weak stock springs....do you still have them, or have you already upgraded?
There are two element to this question. Lift; if you lift the valves way past the max airflow ability of the heads, valve train wear is accelerated to no good end even though there would tend to be a gain at low and mid lift values. Duration; The heads have just so much airflow ability in CFM. If they begin to airflow limit at say 5000 rpm then camming with durations that need/can use airflows for peak hp in the 6000 rpm range is a waist of performance and usually results in less than the best running engine in the lower rpm ranges due to the long duration. Attention paid to matching these element usually gives the best overall results along with the proper intake and carb sizing as well as rear gearing.
I went mid12`s on a stock cam and 1.7 cobra rockers with ported E7`s that I did myself .Then I tried a E303 cause all my Buddies said with a bigger cam it would go faster. Well it went 13 flat. And I got worse gas mileage .That was my experience.
Variable.....too many variables. Define "slightly worked" as it applies to these heads. Also, I'd need to know the rest of the combination. Don't have the centerline of the F cam handy but if you insist on using it I do know from past experience that it needs to be installed at 108 or 110 centerline. This will bump the low speed power. Fill us in on the rest of the combo.
I would rethink using the F303 cam because it's primary gains are in the mid to upper ranges your sleightly worked heads won't do justice to. Better to go with the E303 first for lower range power, then the B303 to raise it a bit depending on your gearing, head work etc.
Back to the table. Ok, here's the COMPLETE combo. '89 HO roller motor, bored .030 over. keith black hp. flat top pistons with 6cc reliefs polished stock rods/crank with ARP wavelocs probe main girdle windage tray 9 qt oil pan E7TE heads with a 3 angle valve job and a little shaving done to compensate for the pistons as well as screw in studs, valve guides, and full roller rockers. The intake will be a Weiand stealth with a 600 holley atop it. I will be running hooker 6901 headers, as for an ignition, I'm taking an old points dist. and using a pertronix on it. Almost forgot, a mildly built c4 with shift kit and (what stall?) converter will be put behind it along with the stock 3.00 gears for now. Now, I'm between the e-303 and the b-303 cams as I can get them used pretty cheap, I'm going to get a set of used stock roller lifters for whichever and springs to match. Looking forward to your comments. cam specs here.
I don't think that cam would be TOO terribly much for those heads. The "alphabet soup" cams have lazy lobe profiles, so the specs don't tell the whole story. Personally though, if it were me, i would look at some other cams. With the E7's the exhaust doesn't flow wonderfully, so a split duration would help you out there (more exhaust duration). I would think something with ~ 215-220 intake duration (@.050) and 220-225 exhaust, and about 500 lift would be appropriate. You can always check out the mustang boards, they've run everything and know the ones that work best!
The mustang boys suggest this cam due to the overlap Brand: Trick Flow Specialties Product Line: Trick Flow Track Heat Camshafts for Ford Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,500-6,500 RPM Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./225 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 275 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 279 Advertised Duration: 275 int./279 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 int./0.510 exh. lift Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
I had a B cam in a '89 Mustang Coupe. I 'might' have gained .05 out of it in the 1/8th at best (stock springs, heads, etc). Just an f.y.i. Good luck.
Yeah, i was going to suggest the TFS Stage 1 (the one you've got listed), but i was afraid to My girlfriend had that cam in her '95 GT and it ran great! It wasn't on stock heads, but i think the specs are about perfect for you. They also have better lobe profiles than the "alphabet soup" cams, and the idle is a little lumpy but VERY driveable. Good prices on them too. I'll add a vote for that one.
