There have been a lot of threads talking about which cam to run latley. I would like an opinion on the one I have been running for over 10 years. I put it in when I knew nothing (now just know a little) and have made a lot of changes since, except for the cam. Is it helping or hurting me? (car runs strong from 2500-7000, no track time yet) Here is my cam & build: SOLID LIFTER Crane # 363841 lash .010/.012 hot Lift: at valve Int 533 Exh 555 1.6 rockers Timing at .010 int opens 30 btdc closes 74 Abdc adv dur .284* exh 83 31 .294* Timing at .050 int opens 10 btdc closes 48 max lift 109 dur .238 exh 63 5 119 .248 I REALLY do not understand all the above like I should! What else? Build is a '68 302 .030 over forged flat tops Heads Edlebrock RPM's milled to get 10.2-1 comp 1.94's not 2.02's Reconditioned rods with ARP oversize bolts Windage tray Weiand Accelerator intake headers Hedman Demon Speed Demon 650 c-4 with 3000 stall 4.11 powertrack locker (N2O is on car, but empty bottle!, may never use again) Missing anything? Changes you would make?
Looks like intake duration @ .050 is 238; exhaust 248; 109 intake/119 exhaust = 114 centerline. Looks like a good camshaft for your application. Is there anything you don't like about it? I'm not too wild about the 114 but if it works for you then stick with it. What do you use the car for? Street? Street/strip? Weekend toy only?
I am happy. I just was one of those guys that stuck parts together in high school without really matching them up. It appears I got lucky! Car is a weekend toy that I will race a few times a year. (hoping for low 12's since that is where I was with the stock heads and N20, would like that w/o N2O!)
looks decent to me. is car really equipped to use the rpm? converter looks small. you might get better times with 3700-4200 stall. is cam installed advanced or straight up?
Cam is straight. I have debated the converter. I like the streetability of the 3000 (sees about 2700) and was nervous about a 4000 stall. Car pulls through 7000, I shift at 6800 when I am playing around.
you might try moving the cam to 5 deg adv if you have a multi slot crank sprocket. should shift the power curve down about 400-500 rpm and give better cylinder pressure. is that lash figure correct? sounds very tight. opening lash a few thou will pick up bottom torque, also.
according to crane, lash on that part num cam should be .022 hot, intake and exhaust. have you tried running at that lash? sometimes lash more than a few thou tight (or loose) can damage lobes. try running about .025 hot and see how it does.
The wider lash will effectively shorten the duration and could give you some added grunt. Also, the 114 LCA is not a great thing, however, it IS a nitrous friendly spec! Without nitrous or some sort of boost, the LCA is too wide IMO. Dave
Have the cam card in my hand, .010/.012 HOT. I set it a tad loose, but not much. Do I ant to increase cylinder pressure or the torque curve? I am pretty happy with it now. I was just looking for some more insight into my combo. Wanted to make sure my parts were not completely mis-matched.Thanks..
if you check the crane web site for that part num, you will find that they have changed the spec on that grind quite a bit then. if you play the lash a bit and find improvement, fine. if you're happy as is, no problem either. enjoy.
Sounds like a good combo to me! Other than the stall, but if it's a street car it's probably better to avoid the extra heat anyways.
