I am pretty sure they are opposite, and I know about the bigger bowl theory, it's just that on my 73 brake cyl. both bowls are the same size and the fittings are reversed when matching up to the 74 brake cyl. I am thinking of cutting off the flare tips and switching the fittings and reflareing, anyone done this before?
Don't reverse them. I did that same swap. Take your master cylinder and the brake lines to an auto parts store and get the correct adapters.
So then, both rear bowls are for the front brakes? If so, why not just switch the flare nuts and reflare instead of adding adaptors?
I have the same question about a 71. I thought just the top of my mc was leaking but I looked today and the back resivour is completely empty just from sitting (haven't used the brakes since I last filled it - it's been on jack stands). The front resivour is still full. Just wondering whether to trace to the front or rear brakes for a leak?
the front one goes to the rear brakes. if the rear one is empty you need to check the front wheel cylinders and also check the the firewall under the m/c to see if its wet with brake fluid.
ok, if it's that one goes to the front I'll wait until I finish re-doing this suspension. I already have new brake hoses for the front to put on, hopefully that fixes it. I wasn't planning on messing with the rear end of the car yet, so that was my fear. Thanks.
as long as you dont have it leaking out the back of the master cylinder. check to see if the paint under the master cylinder is pealing up or wet. if it is you need a new master.
The stuff under the master cylinder looks dry...there is nothing that I can see that's painted under there. It's pretty grimy. If your talking about the master cylinder being painted hahaha ha.. I'm pretty sure it's the original one from the car, just rust on the outside. It has some rust on the inside too which doesn't give me warm fuzzies. I think I'll replace the master either way just to be safe. I don't like the idea of my brakes not working. I wiped the outside of the mc and put more fluid in there to see how fast it drains. If it drains fast and the outside isn't wet then I'll search my lines I guess...?
If the M/C is rusty inside...Replace it.Pull the front drums(if you havent allready) and peel back the rubber boots on the wheel cyls...(do this with the rears too) If you see wet (fluid leak) If you see rusty crusties and muck...(fluid leak and rust from moisture) in the system.Replace the offending wheel cyls after flushing out ALL the brake lines.Bench bleed your new M/C...DO NOT bleed it installed on the car.(you will break it)You can flush the system with the existing parts in place(if the M/C works) Open one bleeder at a time and pump the peadal(keeping the M/C full with fresh fluid) untill clean fluid runs out of the bleeder.Repeat process with other wheels.Now install new M/C (if you need one) and new wheel cyls as required and bleed system.You dont want to pump the old crusty swill through your new wheel cyls.Good luck!!!
oh wow. that's alot. ok, I've got some research to do now on this. I only understood about half of what you said to do...
hahaha. I was just looking up all the stuff that you said to do and so many of the posts about brakes are from you. I guess you're a resident expert?
" I've found that there's really no need to bleed it out of the car. Just bolt it in and before you connect the lines, run hoses from the ports feeding back into itself. That way you can just carefully pump on the pedal intead of having to mess around pushing the plunger a screwdriver (or whatever you use) and then installing it quickly, trying not to spill brake fluid all over your fender and firewall. Just my two cents." I found this on this forum. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=3033&highlight=bench+bleed does this work?....I feel like I could screw up bench bleeding. Regular bleeding is pretty easy. I've done that before...
