The engine is out!

My son, being the great help he is, has got the engine out of the donor T bird for me! This is a 70,000 mi 84 302. I know I will have to swap oil pans and pickup tubes, this one has the Mustang style double sump. My question to those who have used the later model motor, what am I going to do for a dipstick? This one has the block style, which will be useless with a front sump oil pan. I don't know if the timing cover has the hole for the dipstick or not, if it does it's buried under the late style alternator mount, and I see no way it could snake thru past the bracket. This engine has a sort of hybrid belt system, a flat belt that runs only the alternator, and a seperate V belt that runs the water pump and a/c and power steering, not reverse rotation on the water pump. I have a set of v belt pulleys, but they work the same way, 1 for the alt, 1 for the a/c ps, and waterpump, so I've either got to run power steering or an idleler pully to use either of these pulley sets. Also, this timing cover does not have the place for a mech fuel pump, it's there but the hole is not open in the casting. So, what do I need to put it in the Mav besides the front sump pan and proper pickup? Do I need to find an early style timing cover? I can run an electric fuel pump, so I'm not worried about that, just mainly the dipstick and pulleys. Heres a few pics of the motor after he got it out, it's nasty and choked with smog junk right now.

 

I found a bolt that fit in the original Dipstick hole on the block and just screwed it down. I forgot all about doing that until you just asked about it in this thread. I'll have to see if it is still there ... I'm sure it is ... I have no oil leaks. I used an early timing chain cover with the mechanical fuel pump boss. It has the hole to mount a dipstick tube. I'm using a mechanical fuel pump.

Try to find an old 302 parts engine. You will need the timing chain cover, fuel pump eccentric to go mechanical and the oil slinger. Not sure about the 84 engine but I had to go with a one piece eccentric on my 95 engine. Some 302's had a 2 piece eccentric (uses a longer dowel pin on the cam to hold it in place). The one piece eccentric has a metal tab that seats in the cam to hold it in place.

 

Thats kinda what I figured, but what about the pulleys? Will the late pulleys/brackets work with the early style timing cover?

 

I don't see why not ... dimensionally the covers are identical. I am not using a Serpentine belt just standard V-Belt. I bought a set of March Billet Singe-Groove pulleys for me car.

Just make sure you use the original Harmonic Damper and Flywheel then you can use any pulleys you like.

If that is a roller-cam you will also need a dizzy with a steel gear ... not a cast iron gear. I think some 84 engines were roller and some weren't.

 

Thanks Dan, now I need to find an early timing cover, anybody got one they will part with for a reasonable price? I'm not sure if it's a roller cam or not, but I'm going to put in a regular hyd cam anyway, along with a new timing chain and swap out the intake for an aluminum with a Holley 4 bbl.

 

I would think you could use the regular dipstick. Just mark the old dipstick with a new mark (notch) after you've filled the engine block and tested to see where the 'new' level is. I believe, even though it's a double sump, the oil level will be above the plateau between the two, right?????

If you haven't done so already, you might want to peruse www.summitracing.com to check on prices for the timing chain cover and other 'useful' parts. Some of their stuff is relatively cheap (i.e, NEW timing chain cover $112)

Best o' luck with the project! Please keep us updated.

 

i have a clean early timing cover.sent you a pm.thank you,chuck.

 

Will a Standard Hyd cam work in a block that was originally a roller cam block?

 

It should, not all roller blocks had roller cams, some were regular hyd. At least thats what I've read here on the board, so I'm taking what others have said as the truth. I figure there's a lot of folks who know more than I do!

 

Nope. The base circle is different. I'm guessing if you changed the whole valve train including lifters it would probably work.

 

prime cadidate for the serp swap out yep...

 

I would only put new lifters on a new cam anyway, roller for a roller cam, std for a std cam, pushrods might be differnt, but rockers should be the same?

 

Roller-lifters generally do not need to be replaced ... they can be re-used on a new cam.

 

I'm going to get my son to pull the intake here in a little while, then I will know for sure if it's roller or not....

 

Just pulled the intake, not a roller.