I got my new 9" rear end from Quick Performance Racing (ebay) and it is an awesome piece. Everything seems to fit nicely except a few minor things...I need HELP! 1. The Moser axle hub has a bigger diameter than the brake drum. Has anyone had this problem? Should I machine the brake drum center to make it bigger or try and get a new drum with a larger center? 2. The driveshaft u-joint u-bolts are slightly too big for the new 9" yoke. Probably just need to get new bolts, but it seemed wierd that the 8" yoke would have a larger spacing than the 9"??? I may also be able to force it by bending the bolts a little. Any advice??? Can't wait to get her running with the new 4.30 gears and spool. The whole setup with gears, spool, axles, bearings, spring perches welded on, and shipping was only $1300.
This is all new stuff except for the brakes. The backing plate fits, axles fit and everything. I think the axle hub is wrong...or I might have to get all new brakes.
Looks like the axles are for a big Ford housing end and 11 inch drum brakes. Guess I'll try to get Moser to exchange the axles for me...or fix these ones.
reason i asked if everything was new was because when i got my new axles from moser i couldn't get them to go all the way in. i had never run anything but stock axles before. the new axles had the bearing mounted from moser and i hadn't taken the original bearing out from inside the axle tube. once i took that out they went right in. moser was pretty good to work with. good luck.
Sounds like the axle hub is the later variety. The hubs got larger on Fords after 72. My 72 rims and drums won't fit my 75 for that very reason. I would either: Get later Mav drums or Get the drum machined open until you get later drums or Get the hub turned down just enough to continue using your drums for eternity. If the thing was made for larger brakes, your backing plate would NOT have bolted up. The U-joint is probably a different series than your original and your driveshaft. You can go to your local clutch/drivetrain shop and have them measure what series your chunk uses and what series your shaft is. This way they can sell you a 'hybrid' joint. These are common joints and work well for swaps. One pair of bearings will be for the chunk and one for the shaft. I had to do this when swapping c4 to c6 once in a Ford. Dave
Thanks for the info. You are 100% right . I think I'm going to have the axles machined down to the smaller size. I did find drums that will fit, they are the 73 to 77 Maverick rear drums, but they are about $120 each. Machining should be about $50 and then the regular drums will fit, which are way more common and are only $30 or so.
Oops, Uh Oh Measured up my pinion angle tonight and it was 15 degrees, like 10 degrees too much...had the spring perches welded on at the wrong angle. Pretty much my bad. Oh well, at least I caught it before it caused damage. I took everything apart and I'm sending it in to the same guy who is fixing the axles and u-joint problem. Eventually, I'll have it running.
Make sure he gets the axle hub size right and DON'T have them weld the spring perches on. He tried to tell me to do that myself, but I was stupid and told him to anyways. Do the pinion angle yourself or take it to a shop to do that part. Brighton always answers the phone, which is great customer service.
How'd the pinion angle get to be so "off" and what's the best way to measure it? Does anyone know what the stock pinion angle is? And does changing our leaf springs change the pinion angle.....
