Jamie check napa ... you may have to buy a new hose to get one ... either that or pull one from one of your junk yard runs ...
According to Gates (belts and hoses) New rubber hoses are stronger than 70's or earlier stuff and don't require a spring. If you collapse the lower hose you need a radiator not a hose spring. Never had a spring in my Comet. with the 302 or the 250. Never had a prob with the cooling system....well except for the time I blew a freeze plu but, that's another issue.
Exactly what does the spring do...I mean, I know it keeps the hose from collapsing, but what would cause a collapse? Jamie, don't be jackin' the thread that I jacked...by the way, love those new rims and the new avatar pic!!! Also, I agree with Jamie about the rusty springs...and if the spring is rusty, what does the inside of the block look like??? I would hope that the coolant chemicals would protect the surfaces of the block and radiator, and would do similar to the spring. By the way, thanks for the picture...and the suggestions to go to NAPA (O'reilly/Hi-Lo is my usual parts house of choice). Now I know for a fact that the correct part exists, and can recognize it on sight.
It's funny my thread popped back up since i'm back having rad issues again.Long story short,i found proper Mav hoses,hooked everything up and my junkyard rad leaks,[ remember i'm in Canada this stuff is hard to locate],so i stopped at another yard and he had a real clean 69 cougar 351w rad and gave it to me,fits in the car perfect but one problem!!the bottom water neck is on the wrong side.So needless to say i'mm going to have to get mine recored it's just going to push the completion back some since the bank account is gettin awfull close to the negitives.kind of a pointless post but i feel better.Derek.
Here is an idea for you since you have a 90 degree water neck. Try using some 1.5" diameter schedule 10 aluminum tubing and bending it to the shape up need for your radiator hose. Just use the rubber hose to connect it to the radiator outlet and the water neck. With the aluminum tubing you could paint it the same color as your car or motor. Plus it might cool down faster than the rubber since aluminum cools down quick. Just an idea that I have been kicking around since I also have a 90 degree with my CSI/CSR water neck. Plus my March pulley set up raised my altenator up to where using a stock radiator hose won't fit properly. I have also seen this done with some street rods and customs.
Should just be able to swap in a 66-69 SBF water pump. That is all it takes to get the lower hose on the other side. 70 is when they went to the 'new' water pump and moved the lower connection over. A pump at the parts house should be much cheaper than a radiator.
Just curious would my pulleys still line up okay,what i mean is are the pumps the same length or depth?
By time that day comes the hose will be dry rotted and useless. I've made my own hose "spring" by wrapping a piece of straightened metal clothes hanger around a piece of pipe. Even though a lot of new hoses come without them I'll always run one, cheap insurance.
You will need to make sure you don't get the following: The 289 HiPo used a shorter pump for some reason I don't know AND The earlier 62-65 SBF pumps were aluminum from the factory and used a slightly different timing cover. It is a nice thought to go to AutoZone and be able to get a stock rebuilt aluminum pump for 22 bux, but I don't know for sure they would work with the later timing cover. So, you should go for the 66-69 stuff to make sure your later stuff is compatible. The covers and pulleys didn't change when they changed to driver side lower... The balancer went from 3 bolts to 4, but that only concerns the bottom pulley bolt pattern. Dave Edit: Just remembered, you might have to transpose some timing marks on the balancer. I have no idea if the other pump will obscure the stock marks. Wouldn't think so, but it may.
Exactly. Nothing wrong with my radiator, never had a problem before I took the spring out. It only overheats when I get up above about 75 mph on the interstate. Only logical thing I can figgure out is the hose is collapseing from the vaccum created by the water bump at those RPM's.
If the free radiator is good take it to a radiator shop and have them move the lower hose connection to the other side. Just make sure you mark the radiator so you know you can clear the crossmember.
Thats what my dad sugessted today.I talked to a rad shop today and he said he could recore the original for around 100 bucks so at least i have a few options now.Thanks for all the great sugesstions guys.Derek.
