Hello everyone! I have managed to accomplish quite a bit on my car just by using the imformation posted on this site. Thanks for all the help. But, I have finally come up against a problem I trully don't know anything about. My front wheels are bowed out - so that the inside edges of the tires have worn out fast. The car pulls slightly to the right when driven, and pulls really hard to the right when braking. The steering wheel and linkage seem to be fine. But it feels like my front wheels are going to pop right off! The ball joints were shot when I bought the car. So those have already been replaced. Up until now I have been focusing on other things. Neither I nor any of my "help" know anything about suspension. Is this something I can fix myself, or at least do some of this myself to save some dough? So far we are all just staring at eachother going - DUH! Can anyone point me in the right direction? HELP!!!
Sure .... save lots of $$$ doing it yourself ... 1) Buy this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967...hZ019QQitemZ8066677972QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V 2) Install it one weekend 3) Drive up and get an alignment on Monday after the weekend install ... 4) Now you have a brand new fronts suspension.
Front suspension. Thanks for the quick reply! This looks like what I need. Does it come with directions? Do I need any special tools? I'm a novice engine/paint and body guy?
You'll need a coil spring compressor and basic automotive tools. A Chilton's or other picture of the exploded diagram of how the front suspension is put together is helpful. But ... there aren't many peices. Just watch closely as you take it apart and it goes back just the opposite. The trickiest part will be compressing the coil spring ... the hardest part will be smacking the sprindle to seperate the ball joints.
You can go get it aligned first. The mechanic who aligns it should tell you if any parts are worn that will affect the alignment. Since you already replaced ball joints, they will be duplicated in that kit.
Sounds good. This will be the next project to tackle! Just as soon as I get the interior put back together. I just put in some new floor pans and treated some rust. Right now I can't drive it anywhere. If only my family would leave me alone for a while! Never enough time! For Father's day I'd love to just drink beer and work on my car. Oh well!
mavaholic hit it, if the balljoints are new it might just need an alignment. when my whole front end was new, i had inside tire wear after the second alignment. the first alignment they had left the camber bolts dangerously loose. took a fourth alignment at another shop to get it close to right. you would be surprised how loose the alignment specs are on our car, vs a perfectionist doing it right.
WOW...I didn't know you could replace the entire front stuff that cheaply. Also, didn't know you could get it in a kit. Hmmmm.....
I think I'll go the cheaper route first. 2 new tires and a front end alignment. If that doesn't work I may have to go with the whole new kit. I have other area's I would like to concentrate my money on if I can.
I learned while replacing my front end that using a floor jack with the spring compressor makes it a lot easier. Use the floor jack under the spindle and jack the floor jack up while tightening the spring compressor. It makes it so much easier on you. Another thing, becarefull with the kind of spring compressor you use. I used a cheap one from the local auto parts store and almost lost my fingers. I invested in a Snap On compressor and that thing was so much safer. You can sometimes find the Snap On compressors on Ebay. Check out PST for a front end kit. They sell them in rubber or polygraphite bushings. If you call and request a catalog or act like it is too much they just might knock off 10% to help you out. They offered a 10% discount to my buddy since he kept calling and then putting the purchase off. The spring compressor I used I paid over $135.00. I just found it on Ebay for less. CHECK IT OUT.
A couple of things will cause a pull hard to the right with the brakes applied. First check the up and down play in your idler arm. This will change tow to the negative (tow out) when brakeing. If you have any play at all in the idler arm you need to get that fixed prior to getting it aligned. You should be able to get one (order one) at your local parts store. or you can also get a rebuild kit if you are inclined to. The second thing that will cause a right pull while you are driving and a hard pull when you brake is, brake adjustment. If the front brakes are adjusted uneven or there is any air in the front brake lines you will not get the same pressure on both sides. I see you have a 71, so unless someone has converted it to front disk the brake adjustment should be done by someone who has worked on 4 wheel drum brakes. The front brakes are not as forgiving as the back brakes are as far as adjustment is concerned. They have to be almost exact in the way they are set up and adjusted to get the car to stop straight. And as said before, take it to a competent alignment tech to get it aligned. Ask around and talk to several people before you decide to take it someplace. If the alignment is not done correctly it can sometimes do more harm than good. If you would for some strange reason be in the area I would be more than glad to align your car for you. This will give you a couple of things to look at. While you are under there look for any play in the steering linkage. I hope this gives you some insite on whats going on with the pull. Don
You dont have to replace the parts before the alignment if you go to a good shop. they will tell you exactly what is wrong and what needs to be replaced before they can align it. i do agree with having someone who knows how to adjust drums do it for you though.
Now I am confused!!!!!!! First you say that you dont have to replace any parts before you align the car if you take it to a good shop. Then you say they will tell you what you need to replace before it can be aligned. Well Ill tell you what, if the idler arm is loose there is no way in hell you can get it aligned correctly. I work as an alignment tech and I was trying to give him some info to look for before he took it to an alignment shop to save him a little money. Anyone with at least a little mechanical ability can change an idler arm on a Maverick/Comet( 3 fasteners). I was under the inpression that we were here to help each other out and get things done a cheep as we could, that is what I was doing. I understand that very few people out there have the ability to align thier own cars so you are left with taking it to someone who is going to mark up the price of the part, charge you for installation,and then charge you for the alignment. Would everyone please keep with the spirit of this site and give advice, as you know it, and try to save some of the people on here some money so they can spend it somewhere else on thier cars. One other thing that I failed to mention that will cause a pull while applying the brakes is if the strut rod bushings are warn out. Don
