Do you guys think that hooker super comp 1-5/8" headers are going to kill me that bad with a 302 or 302 stroker? Which engine would they be best on with some victor jr or afr 185 heads and a 150 shot? I was also wondering about an 8.8" rearend out of a ranger, has anyone ever done this? Thanks Steve
i have been told that stock to stock the 8" is as strong if not stronger then a 8.8 i would say if your not going to a 9" its not worth it maybe you could get a 12 bolt to fit out of a need i say it
In my opinion, a 8.8 is nothing more than a 10 bolt. What a pain in the ass to set up too. I just finished rebuilding the 8.8 in my Bronco. I'd take a 8" over that anyday. Probably the only reason Ford quit building the 9" is because the 8.8 is much cheaper to manufacture.
Since MaverickGrabber said somthing about putting in a 12 bolt chevy rear end I figured he opened the flood gates for creative ideas. Well here it goes!!! how about a Dodge 8 3/4 rear end ! Darts and Valiants have a rear end that is 65" wide and 43" centered on the spring pads. Arent Mavericks about the same? Also the 8 3/4 is a 3rd member rearend just like the 8" and 9" rear ends. The 8 3/4 is also very strong and much lighter that a 9" Ford, It also used the same bolt pattern as ford 5-4 1/2 and they are Cheep!!!! I can get housings for free or very cheep and Ebay usually had posi 3rd members for $150-$200 and I can find them for less locally. It would just be a driveshaft mod and new brake lines. Ouch I go wash my mouth with soap!
I will add I had a a 8.8 in my mustang and it sucked BAD!!!! I would never use a 8.8 as a swap rear end. Your 8" is better I put a 9" in my 5.0 but it was supercharged
hmm...there's PLENTY of FAST Mustangs out there that will beg to differ on the 8.8's. Too bad you had a sour experience with one. Most are very reliable for street/strip applications (in my experience).
My rear end held up OK but no 3rd member. No changing between street and race gears in an hour. Also the stock clutches wear out farely fast. It also dosn't hold the pinion adjustment very well. I did make mine work in a 11.90 car but making it work and liking how it worked are very different.
Normally after you get the axles out you have to pry the carrier out because there should be pressure on the carrier races to keep the correct load on the carrier bearings. When I slid the second axle out, I heard this crashing sound. I looked under the truck and the carrier had rolled right out of the housing and came crashing down on the floor. It hit the edge of the pan I had used to catch all the rear end fluid and flipped it over. Geee, its funny now.
Thanks Guys, Now what about the 1-5/8" headers? And that is the outside diameter. Will they work well, or will they really limit my choices? Should I build more of a torque engine, or get bigger headers (do not want to $$) and build a high rpm engine? Thanks Steve
Headers 1 5/8s headers will work fine. They are good for high 10s lows 11s, 1 3/4 might make a little more at High rpm but you can do without them,
Funny you should mention all of this . I have had a 8 3/4 in my car for 15 years ( 1 7/8 pinion shaft , cone style posi , shortened axles ) for 15 years . Nothing has ever broke except I have remachined the cones a few times (started to slip ) . I also shim the springs in the posi really tight . It also weighs about 25 pounds less than a 9 inch too . Its a long story how I ended up with mopar stuff in my ford so forgive me . As for 1 5/8 headers , no problems untill you start revving over 6500 / 7000 RPM ( stock heads ). If you are gonna buy some aftermarket heads anyway I would buy new 1 3/4 headers . Many times I wished there was bigger headers that fit my car . Better flowing heads , larger motor .....It can only get worse I would think .
