Proud Unvailing

fiberglass parts have been discussed many times on this board...do a search and come to your own conclusion.
I have an unlimited product hood on mine. Quality was decent, fit was very poor. But with a little cutting on the hinges, it fit decent. Definitely not even a low buck show quality IMO. But for racing or a daily they can be made to fit fairly nice.

 

ill take the grabber hood off your hands.

 

Good score!

If that engine is fairly stock, you won't like 4.11 gears in there.
I had a stock 351c 4v in my 75 for a while.
The toploader and 4.11s were still in there from a previous, and much more radical 302, and the car drove like a dumptruck with the stock 351. Seemed like it couldn't muster more than about 10 feet before it needed to shift into the next gear. It was a wide ratio toploader, which made it worse, but the 3 speed is geared similar.
You will want a cam and headers for sure to use 4.11 gears.

What are you doing for headers?
Tubular Automotive makes a good set.
Cast manifolds can be used, but need quite a bit of trimming with a grinder.
They must be installed before you drop the engine in.
As the plugs and wires need the same...
Without shaving the towers back, you will need to raise the engine up above them when you want to change plugs. Use Bosch platinums.
Also, don't forget the tower braces, they are a must on any Mav, but more and more critical with a strong or heavy engine.
Subframe connectors are a good idea as well.

Good luck,
Keep us updated.
Dave

Edit: Forgot something important!
Stock manifolds don't work with stock Mav equalizer bar!
The lower portion falls dead center of the outlet of the stock manifold.
You will need to go to hydraulic clutch, or might get away with a custom Z-bar.

 

I got hooker headers that my friend will cut and re-weld into the shape that we need, I didnt know about the shock tower brace and i definately knew I'd be needing subframes. Were thinking of just drilling holes into the inner fender to reach the spark plugs. Kinda like the older chevy tahoes had it. Also it has some aftermarket cam in it, not sure what not really to worried yet Ill just see when I drive it and dyno it. If it'll work for awhile good if not, eh no biggie Ill just swap it out. Lastly we still might shave the shock towers those pics were just the mock up with everything sitting in place. Ill keep you guys posted!!

P.S. whats a Z-bar?

 

Tight fit, easiest way to see if you have 4v heads is to look in the top left corner of the heads, a 4=4v 2=2v. It may even be a 4 bolt main block.

 

Interesting project!

Good luck with it and keep us posted.

 

Thanks guys, I know for sure its a 4V we looked at the top left of the cylinder heads.

Im hoping to get a video of it starting up and everything and letting the one wheel wonder light up a poor tire in the process. Ill keep you guys in the loop!

 

If you plan on modding headers to fit, one tip I can offer would be to cut off the collectors right at the end of the pipes. Then cut the flange into individual flanges so you end up with 8 separate pipes to put in one at a time.
Figure out which pipes need modding one at a time, mocking them up as you go.
Don't crush any pipes, and use mandrel bends if you must add.
When it is all over, either convert the collectors to slip on with tabs, or pick up a set of premade slip ons.

I hope it goes easy for you, however having done the swap a couple times before, I think you are in for a lot of fabbing to get those headers to work.
The Tubular headers come as 8 individual pipes (1 7/8" or 2" primaries depending on which you get) with 3.5" slip on collectors with 4 tabs. The 2 rearward most pipes drop straight down under the engine and cross below the oil pan. All of the pipes for that matter, go straight down. Shock tower clearance is not a big deal like with Windsor engines because the ports on the head point downward. Big tubes are no problem.
You will have to run a remote oil filter setup.

Good luck
Take plenty of pics!
Dave

Btw: Moroso valve covers look mucho cool on this swap because they fill in the engine bay that much more. However they will not go on/off with the engine bolted down. Have to raise it just like doing the plugs/wires. *unless you shave the tower back maximum amount...

 

If I squint, I think I see an Offy Dual Port on there...
You can do SO MUCH BETTER with another intake.
Just a thought. That intake is a band aid to give the 4v heads lower rpm torque, but it is a really restrictive intake.
The best street intakes I have seen were either the Weiand X-Cellerator for mild, or Torker for a little more. The Holley 300-13 is the best ever 4v head intake for street/strip, but they have been discontinued for 20 years and are expensive when you find one. Bud Moore Box intakes, Shelby, Boss, and even SOHC intakes pop up on eBay more often than the 300-13, if that gives an idea about how rare they have become.

Here is my 75 with a stock 4v. There is a lot of dress up on it, but it was internally stock.


Edit:
The pic reminds me of another tip!
Get the electronic distributor out of a 351m/400/460 to use in the Cleveland.
The Duraspark was never offered on the C, but those others have them common in the yards. Easy swap, good or better than aftermarket, and cheap. I used my stock 75 302 brain box, but you probably don't have one in a 73...
The large cap also swaps on to any V8 distributor as well. Gives better insulation from spark scatter, and male wire connectors.

 

We've used the Torker on closed chamber four barrel heads with a TRW style shorblock and a flat tappet cam to go 10.70's in a 3200# Mustang. The Torker is simply the best, currently available intake for the Cleveland.

 

Yes.
"Currently available"

Torker is a good intake, no doubt.

Just that the 300-13 is better.
Lots of folks know about it too. That is why you can't find them.
The last one I sold got nearly 400 bux.
I couldn't dream of getting that much for a Torker.

Parker makes some pretty neat looking intakes for Cs, but I know absolutely nothing about them.
Ever try one of those?

 

Yes you are correct that is a offenhouser sitting ontop and yes it is a dual plane, Im planning on doing a tunnel ram setup later on down the road the offy is there to just get the car running at the moment.

 

hey i still want that grabber hood

 

I don't know if your Zbar question was answered... If not, it is the linkage in the engine bay that gets pushed by the clutch pedal, and in turn pushes the clutch arm sticking from the side of the bellhousing. It is in a critical position when you are talking about driver's side exhaust routing.

These are the Tubular headers:

 

Wow...Thats the design it HAS to take?