thanks, everythings clear now (yeah right) hehe j/k well, just another question, what would be the numbers of this setup if done correctly???
The only reason I recommended oversized pistons was to keep it a perfect match, let the machine shop make up the difference. All pistons are not created equal.
This guy is looking for something simple and ecconomical and you guys are giving him all these complicated scenarios. Take a '68-'76 302. Bore as neccessary (040 max). Use an ARP oil pump drive rod (the weakest link in any 302 of this era), ARP rod bolts (the 2nd weakest link). CompCam 268H (or equivilant). 9:1 flat-top pistons. Valve-job with guides & seals. New rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. Machine the crank if necessary. Edelbrock Performer 289 intake manifold. Holley or Edelbrock 550-600cfm 4-barrel carb. Full dual exhausts. Headers are a plus. Electronic ignition if you don't already have it. Keep the C-4, nothing wrong with it. Keep it simple. Might cost around $1500-$1700...
Best advice I've seen yet on this topic. KISS principle...Keep It Simple, Stupid. Wanna upgrade performance later? Good aluminum heads are worth about 100 HP +/- compared to stock iron heads...but don't worry, factory iron heads with a little work can easily make 300 HP. The only thing I see wrong with TL's suggestions is the intake...the RPM intake is a better choice. Don't like Edelbrock? Weiand makes one too...I believe it's called a Stealth? I'm not a fan of Weiand intakes though. One too many bad experiences with a 460.
engine cost hey take some advice from some one currently building the engine for my mav. I bought a used lincoln m7 lsc with a roller can v8 the newer v8 or roller engines have higher nickel content therefore are great engines to rebuild my engine was running in good shape and when i took the heads of I could still see cross hatching in the cylinders. the vehicle had 125000 miles on it and running good. i have done some major research and have found cheap stroker kits that will work great on street and come with new cranks and rods and pistons and a very affordable, cheaper than rebuilding engines with stock parts from the dealer or trying to reuse old parts that are questionable in reliability. i spent 2000.00 on my stroker kit but i opted for the upper model of the kits the cheap one was 800.00 which includes crank,rods, piston. Now on the fuel saving a fuel injected motor will be better on gas and produce more power and torque than any carb engine.
The nickel content of various blocks has been the subject of many a debate. The low tension oil rings, on the other hand, help that crosshatch stay nice.
Yeah, roller blocks have been shown to be weaker than 68-78 blocks in the main web areas and have thinner decks that distort. They will split starting in the main web and going up into the lifter valley. Guys add main girdles not because it makes the block stronger but because it just holds the pieces together and maybe saves the crank and cam. Not a problem if you're not going to exceed 450 hp or so. I used a roller block for my current motor.
