solid mounts

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by Gent, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. Scootermagoo

    Scootermagoo Member

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    why a solid engine mount wrap 2 hose clamps around it and don't worry about it
     
  2. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    A guy where I work has a '68 Chevelle that puts out 500 RWHP (yes, it's been Dyno'd) and he told me that he broke several transmissions before he finally figured out that the cause was the solid motor mounts. He now runs standard rubber mounts, not even polyurethane. He said "the motor's gotta move". So I'm thinking 'no' on the solid mounts...
     
  3. Scootermagoo

    Scootermagoo Member

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    my buddy and I came up with the bright idea:rofl2: of having a stock mount welded up as a solid on a 70 torino with a hot little 302 and leave the rest of the mounts stock and it shook the car like a out of balance blender on frappe.. we took it out and ran a stock mount and never had a problem if your worried about breaking the mount then use a torque strap (length of chain a eyelet on the frame and a bolt on the block (never the head use the block )
     
  4. Blown 5.0

    Blown 5.0 Hooked on BOOST MEMBER

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    I don't like even the prothane trans mount, Transferred a lot of vibration into my car.
     
  5. PINKY

    PINKY .....John Ford.....

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    vibration good :evilsmile
    My car shakes and shimmies so much, I did not notice a difference when I put the PROTHANE on :D
     
  6. PINKY

    PINKY .....John Ford.....

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    front plate/mid plate
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2007
  7. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Man, your support is different from mine. My supports do not have a "center rivet".

    The surface of the support in the foreground of your picture must be flat in order for the support holes to line up with the mount holes (ie,. no stand-off of support to mount).

    I see where yours appears to be ground flat, but that plate (where your ground bolt head is) is only an 1/8" thick on my supports.

    Sounds like we have two different types of supports with different plate thicknesss. :huh:
     

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    Last edited: Jan 11, 2007
  8. okibono

    okibono Member

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    uh-oh...:huh:
    (listening...)
     
  9. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    That center rivet is a safety mechanism. The mounts I got from Checker for $9.00 each did not have it, so I took them back and spent $19 each for the ones with the rivet. My original mounts have it as well. I decided not to go with urethane...
     
  10. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    I was going to make my solid "support/mount" like the attached pic
    (drill a hole through the plates, bevel the edges of the pin and hole, fillet weld
    and grind flat on bottom side), but my pal, Ed (fan2488) said no -
    that he could do better (and he did, pics to come).

    Just an idea. :drink:
     

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  11. okibono

    okibono Member

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    I'm slow....
    Is it done?

    lol
     
  12. Erick-Mav

    Erick-Mav Maverick Punk

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    That looks good Rick...do you think there will be a problem with the rubber melting during welding?

    Okibono, bring a mount over and we can try it.
     
  13. Killercomet

    Killercomet Member MCCI

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    I welded 2" strips of metal on each side of the stock mount. Its been working great for about 50 runs and street driving so far.
     
  14. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    The only reason you'd be concerned with the rubber melting is that it would make for a sloppy weld, I assume, because the rubber is "rendered useless" when the two plates are welded together anyway.

    I dunno about the problem of the rubber interfering with the weld - maybe you and Oki can tell us. :drink:

    Ed welded plates on the sides of mine (similar to what Killercomet did, I'm sure). But there was a twist - he ground enough of the rubber and a "center plate" to "inset" the 1/8" thick plate.


    (Man - I gotta get those pictures - I'm not splaining too good :16suspect )
     
  15. fan2488

    fan2488 Member

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    rick, i know what you mean:D
     

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