Since my wife's car will be at car shows in the stock class, and since we want more or less a sleeper, can anyone make recommendations on rear suspension that isn't very intrusive or noticable? I was thinking clamped springs, good shocks... what about some type of over-ride traction bars, somewhat like the Shelby Mustangs used? I have a setup like this on my Fairlane... or maybe Traction Master bars under the rear, painted with undercoating? Engine will probably be a late model 5.0 short block, decent heads with a mild cam, Performer RPM with a 650 Holley, AOD with a mild convertor and shift kit. I may swap in an 8.8 with disks, as that is what I use in my Fairlane, but suspension setup would pretty much be the same either way.
mopar used to have a slick trick. have a set of leaf springs made up with the leaves slid toward the front of the car. that's basically what their super stock springs were. no other traction devices were needed. just clamp them well in the front half. very few clamps on the rear halves.
hey guys what is a good set up for mild street car with an auto,3500 stall and 28/10.5 et/streets 4:30 gears and a little squeeze for rear traction with out major chassis mods i have frame connectors ,relocated springs,and an 8 point cage already installed my car will be street driven also open to ideas please
I have had very good luck with the Calvert split mono leaf springs and cal-trac bars. 1.64 60fts with a very mild 302 and 26x10.50 E.T. Streets. Just the bars alone will help a great deal. I replace my springs as well do to the fact that my old springs were shot and saging very bad. Hope that helps
Add a pinion snubber to this leaf setup and it's good stuff! mav289.....sounds like you're a perfect candidate for Cal-Trac bars.
hrmm 1.70 60ft stock shocks and springs set of lakewoods and a 4000 stall and a brake with a 9 inch 4.56s 12.30's at 110mph on 28 by 10.5 et streets (buddies mav) I have a issue breaking stock style shocks so I relocated the shocks by changing to double eyelet ended nissan truck gas shocks and lakewoods mild cam (isky 272high lift) iron ported heads 1.88 60foot and 3 inches of visible air (under the front tires) in the vid isn't all bad for regular radial street tires thru muffs with a 350lb dude in the drivers seat even the corvette guys were impressed with my high traction uniroyal tigerpaws..
umm let me see if the isky online catalog has it listed http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page140.pdf .470 lift 216 @ .050 part number 381270 I ran it with a early torker intake manifold, 600 double pumper, heavily ported small chamber iron heads, flowtech headers 2.5 x piped exhaust and 2.25inch tailpipes, with a 2500 stall (hughes convertor) 3.55 gears. best et was 13.45 @ 103mph I would have liked more convertor with the single plane intake it was peaky I drove it everyday for 2 years before I got the new heads and cam. If you used slicks or stickier street tires I would try a 3500 stall with this and wind it up a lot shift point was 5500 5600 rpm (6000 rpm shift was half a second slower). If using a small (non rpm preformer type edelbrock) try a 2500 stall thing would be a nice tire fryer it would need good tires if you used anything more then 3.55 gears like I was ( I raced it on street tires 4.10s would have been a tire smoker not a leaver). I am using a comp 282s solid cam now and a set of edelbrock preformer rpm heads (1.90/1.60 untouched except a valve job when new to seal a few leaky valves always check new heads out of the box doesn't mean hi perf.. and the iron shot that fell out of the water holes made me nervous) preformer rpm airgap intake 600 doublepumper first (13.19 105) and now it has a 650hp holley (et and mph unknown) It rumps nicely and is on the verge of being to much cam for a street driven car (I have a 6600 rpm pill in the 2 step .. I could run 7000 without issues). Now with normal street tires in low gear it can and will get sideways on dry pavement with 4.62 gears rolling at 30mph. If you want a little more et and have a bit more convertor for a hydraulic flat cam I would use the .512 lift 280 mega/comp 280 magnum/crane type cams instead with iron heads and that cam we have been getting 12.60-12.70 ets out a bracket style mav with a 4000 stall and a brake and 4.56's in a 9inch food for thought I went with a solid cam for something different to do this time. Sounds wicked btw with mufflers and tailpipes under the hood with all the mechanical noise going on and the guys in the know at the burger joints appreciate it. http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3356960 timeslips are named http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3356959 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3356958 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3150422 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3150413 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3223433 current engine combo http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3356953 current combo 600dbl pumper (vacuum advance functional) 90 degree boot ends (I have uni-ends now the edelbrock heads put the 90 degrees into the headers) For those of you new to drag racing I would like to point out a couple of things on the time slips. First my car number is 4485, second off look at my 60 foot times this is why you do not want to bracket race on street tires (1.947 to 2.24 60 footers will lose you more races then you can imagine) if the sun is out the car hooks fine. I flash my convertor when I race (brake stall the 2 step to about 1500 rpm and hold the car still with the brakes (linelock is soon to be added for consistency sake) then flat punch the throttle and let go of the 2 step and flash the convertor to about 3000 rpm with the first combo it hit the tires so hard that it could pick the fronts up about 3 inches off the ground occasionally. This combo make a lot more power (mph doesn't show it yet 3.55's are second gear in the lights 4.62's are on the limiter at 1200 feet mph should be around 106-110 mph when all is said and done and run 12.50-12.70 ets. Ideal combo for this car is a 4000-4500 stall with a single plane intake, 3500-4000 stall with the dual plane, gears should be 4.10-4.33 with a 9inch. I'm at the point it'll start taking out driveshafts and break axles and the main reason I do not run slicks, rather have tire spin and aborted runs then break 8 inch axles. just my 2 cents worth sorry for being long winded on this but I wanted to point out the differences in why the 60 footers are slower with the current combo then it was with the iron heads and smaller cam, and my opinion on what would be the better combo for leaving. first buy slicks or sticky street tires. If your on a automatic without a brake I would seriously consider bfg drag radials or the goodbeer bagle radial stocker slicks for better 60 foot times and more consistency. for you harder leaving guys like me when I get the 4000 stall the radial slicks (28 by 9) or bias plies would be a better choice brake/clutch users bias ply et streets or drag slicks.
mavericks make killer hot rods! Good shocks and lakewoods have made my car go 1.48 sixty foot. Too bad i aint got enough power to make the et go with the sixty.
Talk to COMETGT1974 he is probley goin to be the fastest "stock" suspension comet. Also BOSSMAV has "stock" rear suspension w/ caltracs pulls a 1.38 60ft runs LOW 10s @120+mph
That is one racey lookin 600 carb on your motor. Thanks for the info on the cam. Got any pics of that car with the wheels of the ground they always make me smile seeing a mav hang them. Can remember 20yrs ago a 14 sec mav at my local track use to pop them of the ground leaving my comet was running 12.80`s and didn`t think of doing that. Guy would never tell me what was done to his suspension to do it and by lookin at it it appeared stock.
Eddie I don't think you would call COMETGT1974 rear setup stock! Let's see... I think the best setup for street would be the one KillerComet has. I'm sure it's a little stiff, but did you see the 60's he posted! How many of us have a TRUE street car with a 1.64 60 and doing it on M/T street. How many of us just drag racing have a 1.60 sixty foot? Now I know there are 4 link setup's but that not a sleeper look, the caltrac looks a lot like Shelby under ride bar but BITES a lot better. If you do a search here, I'm sure your going to find a lot of ways to get your car to hook. I know I've posted quite a bit on this subject. Good luck on getin it to hook. As always just my .02 Bossmav
Greasemonkey, can you tell everyone what shock you have on your car? Part number if it a direct fit for a Maverick/Comet Thanks
The fronts are competition engineering morc2630(dougherbert.com).Thay are a direct bolt on. And the rears are just a cheap set of air shocks set at 10psi. Beleive it or not my best sixty was with the fronts at 70/30.
Stephens comet is kinda stock it has leaf springs, thats what i meant no 4 link no ladder bars. i wouldnt care how stiff the ride in killercomets car , cause that thing hooks and gos
