That is not the same as the Manual Adapter from AutoKrafters, is it? It just seems that I should be able to get all my parts from the donor...
You're getting off-track Scott... Yes, you get all of the parts from the donor car. All you need is the centerlink and everything that directly attaches to it (inner tie rod ends and pitman arm). Steering box is optional. He is talking about something that replaces the control valve assembly and keeps your existing power steering center link.
Oh...it started to sound non-stock and more like that AutoKrafter's part. If I could afford that, I would stick with my parts and just swap that out.
Hi. I have attached a picture of one of these adapters installed. The car is running 225/60/15's on the front and 265/70/14's on the rear. The girl who drives this POS is 5'1", 100 lbs. and has no problems driving this car. Even Parallel parking it in fairly tight spots. I am sure that you will have no problems. BTW, the car has no "on-center" wander anymore. http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/showimage.php?i=2796&c=8
I just looked up how much of a hassle and how expensive it will be to buy new parts all the way around through AutoKrafters. Not really bad, All can be had for around $300 (no ms box). That adapter looks pretty good. Did you keep the PS box on it? And, how big are the girl's arms...can you post a pic of that? She could be 100 lbs but have 20 lb Popeye arms...
I kept the power steering box and pitman arm. I just removed the power steering control valve, hoses and pump and installed the adapter. Kristi is very petite. No Popeye arms here.
That looks good. I have purchased (or am in the process of purchasing) a complete set that I found. I figure I will replace what needs replacing to make it look original. And tight. I want to experiment using both the manual and power box and maybe even get pseudo-scientific and actually measure the amount of torque it takes to turn the wheel with each, for future reference. I have a fairly small steering wheel, fairly wide tires, and that will make for more difficult steering. I might put my torque wrench on the center nut and measure how much it takes to move the wheels with both boxes, to at least give a pretty good estimate, maybe a percentage increase in ease, between the two boxes. I tend to do all my projects this way. The hard way, then change it up to see what I like best, plus I learn by doing, and will someday be able to tell someone "It is exactly 12% harder to turn with the Power box" rather than, "well my wife can turn it", or "it SEEMS easy to turn". Not trying to be a smarta$$...I just really enjoy working on this car and learning from what I do. And, I usually learn the hard way what NOT to do in the future
jayman, did you have pics and info on the setup for eliminating the power steering pump for that? i probably missed them
all I used was a stock manual steering pitman and center link matched the inner tie rods and was off and running the pitman and center link are upsidedown from manual to power steering need both pieces or it wont work I had power steering on my mav with the new motor and the 6000 rpm redline it ripped the bracket off the frame (it was welded and bolted down there is still a welded piece on the frame rail with the bolt hole from the bottom ripped completely out )
bringing back the dead on this, scott i mean the pic of the alternator bracket and pulleys not the undercar. thanks though
Pulleys Sierra, On my car I went from 302/AC/PS to a 351W just turning a water pump and alternator. After some junkyard scrounging, I found a water pump pulley on a '70s or '80s F350 truck that had two grooves and this allowed me to use the forward groove on it to drive the water pump. Then I just had to go track down the right length V-belt at the local parts store. Sorry I don't have more specifics here. Hope it helps and good luck!