Timeing Chain Setting???

Discussion in 'Technical' started by halies72, Jan 2, 2007.

  1. halies72

    halies72 Member

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    Im building a 302 for my 72 Comet. Its a hipo motor. It came with a fully ajustible timing chain, all the way up to 8 degrees advanced. I want to set it up at 2 advanced for break in. The "2A" mark should line up with the "key" on the crank, Right? I think it will line up in a striaght line when its done. Is that right? I just want to make sure its set up right the first time. I've spent almost $3500 on this motor. In case you are interested(cause I know I would be). Its a 302, bored 60 over. Flat top pistons. Crower cam, 491 int. 512 ext. 108 lobe seperation. Ford Raceing fully adjustible 3 peice timing chain. Crower 10\20 crank,Crower connecting rods and Clievete 77 mains. 289 heads out of a 66 Mustang(the ones with the heart shape port), ported and pollished. Chevy valves with high perfomace valve springs. High performance lifters with 1:6 ratio rockers. High rise Torker 4blr intake manifold, Edlebrok 4brl 600cfm carb. HVHP oil pump, same with the fuel pump(mechanical). I was going to go electric but I dont want to mess with cutting the fuel lines) Every part on this motor is new with the exception of the timing cover and the power steering pump. Its a high compression motor (should be about 10.7 maybe 11:1 compression). I building it for a 1\4 mile track. I'm hopeing I'm doing this right. Comments or suggestions will be much apretiated. I would like to fire this motor next weekend so any advise on the timing chain will be great.:)
     
  2. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    There's a discussion in another thread about this now.

    I believe you want to RETARD it 4°.

    The point was brought up about valve to piston clearance with the cam being retarded OR advanced over 0°. I assume your flat tops have sufficient valve reliefs?

    I believe Radmav (along with others) had some good info on the topic.
     
  3. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    i thhink different manufacturers mark there timing chains different ways. usually in my experience there is a dot on the crank and the cam gears that need to line up. any that i have seen have different ways to put the crank gear on to advance or retard. what brand is it? btw where you plan on racing at? speedworld or firebird? firebird starts there summit series racing on the 13th and 14th of jan.
     
  4. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    edlebrock double roller has triangle , square and circle each represents -4*,0 and 4*
     
  5. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    keyway

    First the cam gear never moves during this setup. So have it always pointing down as if you're setting up for 0 degs Adv or Ret. When you put the crank gear on either Adv or Ret the crank keyway will point a few degs, however many you're doing in that direction and the dot on the crank gear will line up with the cam gear dot. Only difference now is the crank keyway will not be straight inline.
     
  6. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    Advance the cam to bring the power band down giving up the higher rpm and retard the cam to move the power band up losing the low end.
    If you select the right cam you should be able to install it at 0* and leave it there. That will make the cam work as it was designed.
     
  7. Cleaver

    Cleaver Member

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    If you spent $3500 on the engine.....what is another $50 for a degree wheel? :huh: You've already come out of pocket for the adjustable chain gear. Just because the gear is marked it doesn't mean that is what you're going to get. Everything has a tolerance error. :tiphat:

    Cleaver
     
  8. shaunh82

    shaunh82 Member

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    I put a fully adjustable timing set in mine as well, I think the cam and crank have different keyways, but I know nothing about changing the valve timing so I left it at 0*, but if I have to adjust, I can
     
  9. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    040 over is max for a 302. Don't be surprised if you have overheating problems...
     
  10. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Why? :huh: Why not breakin the motor where you're gonna run it?
    And you won't know where to run it until you degree it and and check it to the cam card.
     
  11. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    Thought .060 was max for sbf :hmmm:
     
  12. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    If you're lucky. I don't like 'em over .030. Some 351Ws I would trust to .060 after a sonic check.
     
  13. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    another "learned something new everyday" :)
     
  14. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    i bored my block .040 over.. and when i lived in tucson i regretted boring so high... i would go back to ,010 any day
     
  15. halies72

    halies72 Member

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    hey, we figured out the timeing chain. Thanks for the input. I didn't bore it 60 over. I bought the block from a shady person. He said it was only 40 over but looking at the top of the pistons it says "060". This is the first motor Im building and I was told to run it at 2 andvanced for break in and if i wanted to I could change it later on. I race atspeed world. dont expect me there too soon. I'm takeing my time with the break in. The cars previous owner beat the **** out of it. So I'm trying to treat it good this time around. I have an electris fan aand a 180 degree stat. So im hopeing I wont have over heating problems. I am installing new full sweep water temp and oil pres. gauges (cause we all know when the idiot light comes on, its pretty much too late), along with a tach. Im going to install a B&M mega shifter one of these days. The next project is going to be the transmition, then the rear end. Any suggestion on gear size? I was told to run 370s. Whacha think? Ill try to get a pic up sometime this weekend. Any other suggestion good, bad or indifferentwould greatly be appreciated.
     

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