yea there a tight fit. I use the roush 200's. Get shorty plugs and flexible plug wires or use 90 degree boots
yep. I got the windsor lites and it was a fun trick to make it work. I used accel header plugs and still had to dimple the tube slightly, and wrap the header in thermo wrap or the wire would burn in just a few minutes.
i use the plug boots from taylor on my plugs. i have edelbrock heads. keeps them from melting $52.95 for a set of 8 through summit.
On my GT40Ps (similar problem?) I use Accel Shorty Header Plugs, a spacer made out of a spare header flange (picture sent), and HEI 90degree boots on the plugs with high temp wires (that you sent me). I still have to jack up the engine and remove the header to do anything with the plugs, even swap wires or remove the plugs.
my question ALL these heads having troubles with spark plugs on one side...why are they made like that??? is it the angle of the spark plug that is supposed to give you better combustion? im sure even in a stang or other car , its a pain to have them pointed at the header...
YUP. The plugs are angled more straight-in to the cylinder to center them between the valves, which means that the tip stick about 10 degrees from straight out of the head. On the pass side, this puts them right centered between the header tubes in the open space. On the drive side, it puts them right in the center of the header tube, sometimes even touch the tubes leaving no room for boots and wires. see pics from http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=18214&highlight=wanna+GT40p PASS SIDE above DRIVER SIDE below These plugs are stock length and hit right at the center of the tubes, as below. Shorty plugs give you a 1/4-3/8" extra clearance, but still not enough room for plug boots. My solution was to take a scrap header, cut off the tubes, and put a gasket on both sides (only on the driver side) of it for extra clearance. Mine are iron GT40P heads, but I am assuming these other guys are hitting the same problems. AS for the Stang, mine came off a mercury Mountaineer or Ford Explorer, and they had a shorty header where the tubes came almost straight down from the exhaust ports, then angled together about 6 inches below the plugs, so you could easily reach the plugs. I should have grabbed those when I bought the heads, even though they probably would not have fit, I would have had them for a template for later on. Purely by accident, I have become a header/plug clearance EXPERT
welcome to hell..... I had to redo 2 tubes on my brothers usuing RHS(protoplines) still gotta make a set of 1 3/4s
This is very helpful information as I'm about to go look at one of these cars this Sunday. Here's the E-Bay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180072626512&rd=1,1 Anybody know this car by chance? He's out on the east coast of North Carolina and I will be looking VERY closely to see what kind of work room there is for this spark plug access concern! I guess I'm buying an engine lift right after I buy the car. Is there anyone old enough out there to remember the old Chevy Monza that came with a factory option of a 390 cu. in. engine. The thing would go like hell on wheels but the dealerships had to pull the motor just to change the plugs,....sound familiar? The only difference I can see here, is that the base price of these cars used is A LOT cheaper than the Monza when it was new,...hehehe! Later guys and girls...
I am using the New Doug Thorley shorties. So far....only had to ding the front 3 tubes on the driver's side, and grind away some of the mounting flange near the spark plug holes in order to get a spark plug socket to clear. It really hasn't been all that bad for having them in the car 5 times. Hopefully the sixth time in will confirm everything clears...then it is off to be recoated. 7th time on should be the final time.
