if rear discs are all one wants, you can use S10-S15 front rotors and calipers (re-drill them for the 4 1/2" bolt circle...which is a simple operation) and you can buy the brackets to bolt the calipers on for less than $20 from Day Motorsports. I just made a template off of an existing bracket and fabbed my own. Works just as good. Only downside is that there is no park brake. It costs less than $100 total including new rotors, calipers, pads, hoses and lines. Also, the Exploder rear disc system bolts right onto a factory 5-lug 8" rear. See pic below. that's what I did on my '74. They work a lot better than drums, but I still have something going on somewhere....the pedal effort has been high since day one. I think someone swapped a power brake pedal into this car (different linkage ratio). Once I find another manual-brake car for parts, the pedal is getting robbed from it. Personally, I'd leave the 8.8's in the Mustangs, explorers, and thunderbirds. They're not quite as strong as a factory 9" rear, and actually if you ask me, I don't think they're as strong as a good-built 8", but I could be wrong. They're wider, which is good for cornering (moves the vertical center of rotation outward...which theoretically improves "side-bite"), but that requires one to use some ingenuity in choosing wheels with respect to offset. One advantage to the 8.8's, even the 7.5"s is that they have less hypoid...a.k.a. gear drag which is supposedly good for a bit more MPG. I still think a 8" or 9" are easier to work on and have many different gear ratios available. Try changing gears at the track with an 8.8. It can be done, but not within an hour's time. With the 8 & 9 you just carry an extra chunk which can be changed in less than 30 minutes, darn near as fast as a quick-change if you're good. I've never had very good luck setting up an 8.8 or 7.5. The one in my Mustang is really loose, but then again I don't drive it easy either. IMO if you have an 8" and are looking for rear discs, find a Versailles, check Ebay, or find a wrecked exploder/mountaineer and use the rear discs. It's easier (and cheaper in my opinion) than getting new wheels, tires, drive shaft, u-joint, etc. I have a few more pics of the Explorer discs if anyone's interested. It's a direct bolt-on, with the exception of the attatching bolts which the 8" rear uses 3/8" bolts and the Explorers are a bit smaller. A 3/8" drill bit takes care of that. Also, the lower caliper bolts get awefully close to the leaf springs, but that's taken care of by trimming the bolts down slightly which will gain a 1/4" or so of clearance. I still have to unbolt the rear end from the springs to remove the calipers, but it's no big deal even with traction bars. The park brake is inside the rotor and I've heard you can use the Explorer cables to finish the installation, but can't confirm that as I haven't done it yet.
yoU CAN USE A JEEP CHEROKEE ROTOR WHICH FITS WITH NO MODS. i TOOK PICS AND WROTE A TECH ARTICLE ON THIS STEFAN WILL BE POSTING THEM SOON.
i am interested in the explorer disc swap also....... what year explorers works on the 8"? any with discs?
as far as I know, '97-later Exploders/Mountaineers are the ones to look for. The donor I found was a '97
so... does everything from the caliper brackets out just bolt up to an 8" rear? If not what modifications are required?
yep. everything bolted up without too many modifications. The bolt pattern on the end of the axle housing was the same, but I did have to drill out the holes with a 3/8" drill bit (I think they are 9mm on the Exploders...which is like .363" instead of .375"..close but not enough).
I have a buddy down here attempting the Exploder swap as we speak. I will let ya'll know how it comes out and try to get some pics. Preston
Explorer rears have an offset chunk...I run a narrowed one in my Fairlane, hope you guys paid attention to that fact, it is off by a couple of inches!
If you ever need to swap and axle from another rear end to yours, DO NOT use the one from the opposite side of the donor axle. Dick and Jane: If you need a driver side axle shaft, replace it with a driver side axle shaft from a donor axle. If you need a pass side, get a pass side from the donor. (Unless you are rich enough to have a new axle made)
Never have thought to update this thread. My friend that was going to do this swap lost his car when Rita hit down here. Water was over the top of the Maverick. Filled up the car, the engine, everything was full of saltwater. So, I guess it's up to somebody else now. Preston
swap I have allready done this swap in a Fairlane, it takes quite a bit of work and custom axles, along with relocating the spring perches. Driveshaft may also need swapped, as the snout on the 8.8 is longer.
If the rear is offset, why not cut the long side down to match the other= loose three inches maybe? and get a short side axle. sound like a good project. if i could find one for around $100 i'd do it myself.
This is what I did, but I used Moser axles... you do have to remember the amount of pinion/ring gear offset when you narrow the rear to match!
