Never built a motor with one. I am considering one for the 331 I am building. Any advice? I am planning on a redline RPM of least 6800rpm even as high as 7500rpm. ANybody here run one? Here is my basic build. Roush 200 heads(sorry haters ) with a stage 1 port job. 11 to 1 comp ratio I may put a tremec TKO600 in or have Lonnie Build me a stout T5(Lonnie that's your cue ) I won't be going any larger than a 3200 if I go automatic
I would answer ,....but I'll leave the serious rod building to you and hackmunch since according to you , your the only ones that can build hotrods:evilsmile oh, and the "Stout" t5..... leave my name out of it please
Man I must of hurt your feelings:evilsmile You make great Bar-B-Q sauce:Handshake I didn't really need advice anyway.......... I just asked to make you feel better and to help you gain some self worth I also think I know why that black hole is getting bigger. You left the 429 sitting there so long it imploded
now dont go playing suck up now....:evilsmile and no, I wont ship you any BBQ sauce either the 429 didnt implode,...but be careful, the next sound you may hear from it could be your little motor getting sucked in thru the injector if you dont need advise, why waste everyones time
Actually I was lying about the cubic inches. My motor really is an 845ci twin turbo methanal injected beast topped off with a mild 1200hp fogger n20 kit. WHo's yo daddy I'm still using the 8 inch rear end though
i use one; love it. a roller will always make more power than flat tappet with the same specs because of faster opening/closing rates. nice idle, no break-in problems, hard on the springs (replace more often), should use stud girdles, higher cost, need bronze cam gear, can swap cams & reuse same lifters, lifters can be rebuilt. on sbf, must remove heads to remove lifters unless using aftermarket heads with altered clearance for the lifters.
Good advice I had to do the same thing with Crane rHyd link bar roller lifters on my brothers motors..... What is the expected spring life expectancy?
Depends on a lot of variables including lobe profile, rpm, quality of the valvesprings and how much you drive the car. Another thing to consider is lifter durability. The last thing you want to have is an axle fail on you. You do not need a solid roller to turn that kind of rpm. The proper solid flat tappet will make almost as much power as a roller at a fraction of the cost and maintenance. If you are looking for every last ounce of power, a solid roller is the way to go. If not, a solid flat tappet is worth looking into.
You don't even need a solid lifter stick. Any of the aftermarket hydraulic roller cams will go that high. However, if you still insist on the solid roller I would suggest that you buy the absolute best lifters on the market. Some of the lesser priced roller lifters are prone to axle failure. You're going to spend quite a bit of money on this setup so don't cheap out.
hey sd, just saw you post here. saw your name and picture in the feb 2007 issue of ford builder magazine yesterday. it was about the ffw, ennis race.
i seen last month issue in Muscle Mustangs and fast fords with the bigger picture will SD,i guess that was Jan issue , cause i just got Feb today
solid roller benefits: unlimited RPM capability, they last a LONG time, don't need to change the lifters every time you change cams, no break in required (which is worth a BUNCH right there!), cooler running engine (oil doesn't get near as hot), better idle, that oh-so-sweet cackle of the valvetrain (sounds like an old boss 302 only better!). You will make more power with a solid roller as compared to a flat-tappet or hydraulic roller, especially at higher RPM. Now the down sides. As Dave mentioned, they're hard on springs. How hard? Depends on how hard you drive it. Red line it every time you get in it, and they won't last long. Keep the oil clean and the lifters will last a long time before the bearings go away and you don't need oil restrictors...they just limit the amount of oil going to the heads, and as you know, the valve springs are cooled ONLY by oil. They're expensive. Cams are usually around $300. Lifters are around $300 now too. Springs are...$100 give or take. Ti retainers are expensive and GOOD keepers are a must with that much spring pressure. We all know what happens when a valve drops. Usually lots of carnage..and if you're lucky you MIGHT save the crankshaft and that's about all. On 289 and 302 blocks, the heads usually have to come off to get the lifters in & out of the block UNLESS the aftermarket heads you have have a slot machined into the bottom for lifter clearance. My Victor Jrs have a slot cut in them from the factory but I dont think that Roush 200's have that slot. Might be wrong. You will need a bronze dist. gear; or call the cam mfg and they might be able to point you to a steel gear. I think you can also have a cast gear pressed onto the cam for a little extra cost, but I never had a minute's problem with a bronze gear. Right behind the gear there is a galley plug in the block. Drill a .025" hole in that plug and your gear wear problems will go away. Basically, the only downside is initial expense. Adjusting valves doesn't need to be done very much. I usually check mine right after I put the motor together, again at 5000 miles and if they're ok, I won't mess with them again. If the clearance changes more than a thousandth or two, there is something wrong. Rocker stud girdles are nice to have...but not required. Dad & I both have a set on ours. 7/16" rocker studs are a good idea. Dad has broken a few 3/8" studs with a really mild street roller. Even broke a 7/16" stud in a money round a while back...and stud girdles have eliminated that problem. I got a cheap e-gay pair and they work great...and the valve clearance doesn't change much, if any, when I tighten them up (unlike the Moroso brand girdles that use individual U-bolts). The engine idles a LOT better with a roller as compared to a flat-tappet cam. Start it up, warm it up for a few seconds and it's ready to rock & roll. Also the RPM doesn't drop as much when you pull it into gear (automatic). Now, when you call a cam mfg to get their reccomendation for a cam profile, first thing you'll notice is that the .050" duration will be a lot more than a flat tappet. That's because a roller doesn't lift the valve as fast as a flat tappet cam up to about .050" lift. From .050 to full lift, the roller will outperform the flat tappet hands down. Also, because of the nature of the way rollers work, you can get away with more duration and not lose any bottom end or mid range. There is more to it than that (a bunch of technical BS) but that's the simplified version. Guy that made my cam..I thought he was full of BS when he gave me the profile specs. 274-278 deg at .050" lift; and I only spin about 7000 max RPM. I was skeptical, but the guy knows his stuff and I picked up about .3 in the 1/8 mile. Went from 6.60's to 6.30's and a few mph. What I liked about him so much was that he's a FORD guy. Called him about dad's 347 and got a 260-264 at .050" and .700" lift. LIttle smaller than mine but dad didn't like the lift because he would have had to get longer valves to accomodate a taller valvespring without getting into coll bind. Went with a Lunati cam instead. Seems to work OK, but the heads are holding it back, IMO. If you have a grand laying around, go with the roller. Like Forest Gump said, "that's all I have to say about that"
