On my new engine, it's overheating. I've replaced the thermostat and cap and it seems that's there's no circulation. I know the thermostat is in correctly (bronze sensor and spring towards the intake). Heats up pretty quick and the hoses are hot but feel spongy and balloning up like they're gonna burst. On a second note; the oil pressure seems low (about 12 lbs at a good idle) even giving it gas doesn't help much. Grant it I have a electrical guage. I removed the sending unit and click it over with a remote starter and I do have a good amount of oil coming out of the block. Thanks (HELP)
Head gasket issue? Either blown or in backwards ... 12lbs of oil pressure at idle is pretty bad .... my car idles at around 50 lbs ...
Look in the radiator when cold and running with the cap off. Is there lots of water coming in the top? Could have gotten a reverse rotation serpent belt water pump by mistake. Cleaver
Still using the water pump which came off my 74 engine. The engine I replaced it with is a 1985 5.0 HO. I have looked inside when cold and it moves around good until it boils over.
If 10psi per 1000rpms is the accepted level, then 12 should be just about right. I get 10psi/1000rpm at high speeds, but idle closer to 20. Now, the not going up when revving...not good. Is oil topped off. Take the thermostat out and run it. Start eliminating potential problems. Sounds like something somewhere is clogged. What does the water/antifreeze look like? I am sorry if I am offending you with these (possibly worthless) suggestions. Just need to look at the obvious items first, and work your way up to the more expensive and more difficult fixes.
OK, i went out and started the car up and let it get warm, and it was idling at 40psi, then 50 psi at 2000rpms. I used to run at 20 psi idle, but I added a quart of Lucas to it, and it doubled the pressure. Not sure if this fixes anything, but just thought I would throw that out there. I guess I am now running 40w-70 or something, with the Lucas thickening it up from 10w-30.
Of course, no offense! No suggestion is worthless. The anti-freeze is new. Since the weather will be dropping (considerably) for the next few days, once it gets warmer, I'm gonna remove the thermostat. Gonna order a new oil sending unit too. I really don't quite trust the one I have so hopefully the problem with the oil lies there. If removing the thermostat cures the overheating, what's the chances of both stats being bad particularly with one straight out of the package
i had really crappy oil pressure after it warmed up right after i rebuilt the engine. the main bearings were the wrong size.. the engine shop ground my crank to .022 under and gave me .010 bearings.. so i had a .012 gap... once everyhting got hot the pressure went south.. replaced the bearings and it worked great. this could be causing your lack of oil pressure, and if there is no oil pressure to keep things cool, this would cause an over heating issue
the chances of having 2 bad stats right from the start.. are very good.. the same exact thing happened to me last year in arizona.. i bought a fail safe stat for my car, it failed in less than 1 month... replaced it with a basic type stat.. it failed again.. i talked to a friend, he said it happens sometimes.. so i got another stat.. tested it... worked fine.. tested again.. worked fine.. put it in car.. and when i sold the car it was still working.. this is why it is a good idea to keep receipts.
Another odd suggestion. Mine was "overheating" after I put my temp gauge in, I messed with it for months trying to get it to run cooler. One day, just as an experiment, I took the wire that leads to the temperature sensor (not really a wire, but a plastic coated flexible brass or metal rod), and draped it over my tall T-bolts for the valve covers. It dropped 20 degrees immediately. I guess having the wire sit on the top of the heads heated it up more than the water temp, giving me a hotter reading than was correct. But, even after the 20 degree drop, it still overheated and spewed out the radiator after 15 miles or so...until I bought a new aluminum radiator.
Don't recall which year they started using reverse rotation pumps. (serpentine belt) Make sure your timing cover matches the standard rotation pump that you are using.
Ditto: If the donor car had a serpantine belt, it's a reverse flow pump. If it had a "V" belt, it's a standard flow pump. If it had a serpantine belt on it in the mustang, and you put a "V" belt pulley on it in the Maverick, you're spinning the water pump in the wrong direction
Good point with the reverse rotation timing cover not sure if that is what he is useing.Also are the heater hoses[both] getting hot you may have an air lock.The coolant will flow in the rad but not through the entire system.Sometimes air locks are had to locate and very hard to get out.Sometimes just running it with the cap off till it gets hot then shutting it off for a few hours it will work itself out.Derek.
I use this tool which eliminates Airlocks and verifies you don't have a leak before you fill it. http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/J360CS.htm
