Last Minute Wheel Tubs

2 weeks before going racing @ the March Meet here in Cali and I decide to redo my Wheel Tubs The hard part (I guess) of removing the stock tubs is not shown, I had done that years ago. I'll keep the progress pictures coming..

 

A little tip from someone who's done several sets of tubs... go to wally world, or your favorite chain department store and purchase some kids pick-up sticks from the toy department. Personally, i prefer the wooden ones because they can be broken in half, thus effectively doubling the amount of sticks you can work with. Look at the end of the cardboard that you are using to make a template...stick the pick up sticks in the corrugation "holes" in the edge of the cardboard and slide them in so that they won't touch the outer fenderwell when installing. Then secure the template to the back portion of the wheel tub, just like you would when taking measurements. Then get you a pair of needle nose pliers and pull each of the pick-up sticks out of the corrugation until they touch the outer edge of the quarter panel. When you're finished, remove the cardboard, lay it out, trace the outline just like you would on a measured piece, and voila'...you're done with that one. I found this to be much quicker and easier than fitting, measuring, re-fitting, re-measuring, trimming, etc... I personally trace my first try onto another piece of cardboard so that i can test fit the tub, but more often than not, it's pretty much dead nuts on! You may have some minor tweaking, but if you try them this way, I think you will be pleasantly surprised!


Later,

 

Thanks Max.... In the past I used the measurment method but this time I used a "widget" as Chris Alston calls it. Worked great!!!! The lines you see on my cardboard is to keep the widget straight as you follow the inside of body panel. Another tip a friend of mine gave me is to 'drag' the cardboard across an edge to allow it to follow the tub curve better. I used the widget and added the 5" (my widget length) cut it out and they amazingly went right in The largest gap might be 3/16"

 

do you weld in the top part of the tub.. or just let it sit there>?

 

My tubs are only riveted around the base to the body/frame and to the center panel that is replacing the seat

 

so around the top of the tub and the inner skin of the wheel well, its floating?

what is that little actuator looking thing with the rod coming out of it for

 

Yes it's floating - in the past I welded some tabs to the body then riveted to tub but they broke. I ran them broke for 10 years so this time I am going to "let 'm float' and aplly some Silicone for seal. The actuator looking thing is called a 'Widget' (guess thats what they call something without a name), The rod is a Sharpe' pen, it is used to trace the inner fender contour. I made it out of scrap aluminum with inline points on each end, 1 point to follow the 1/4 panel contour the other point and edge is used to keep inline with the reference lines on cardboard. The gap I mentioned earlier of 3/16" is only in an area of about 2" the rest is tight too 1/8". The thing really WORKS!

 

I think Simon was referring to the battery disconnect switch shown in the last posted picture.

 

that might be it.. i was just curious as to what a long rod like that would connect to

 

NHRA requires a externally accessible shutoff if you have the battery mounted in the trunk.

 

A big red button on the tail light panel that says off. Good way to do your battery cut off. Protects the switch and dead simple to operate.
Smack the button, car shuts off.

 

Yep - what they said, my mistake, too many late nights!

 

looks good.. what size tire you gonna put under?

 

I am currently running a 9x26x15 and could easily go a 10" tire depending on diameter..... Making Progress......interior panels under the 1/4 glass and mount the fuel cell 'O' then the fuel lines, trans repair, seat belts and

 

Looking good...when's the March Meet? You'll have it ready right?

You gonna put a bigger tire on it now?