This looks like crap. And each time I add something, 1-5 more wires. Plus, the big red one goes along the bottom of the car to the battery in the trunk. I am looking at the Painless #10123 for Ford Muscle Cars 1966-1976 supposed to fit Galaxy, Fairlane, Torino, Montego, etc. I also want to weld up that hole where the battery tray was, and put in a waterproof "Relay Box" so I can add more electronics later on without having to run all new wires. Any suggestions on what to use for a box? One last thing. I want to run all the wires, especially the battery cable, through the frame rails, if possible. Or at least inside the car under the carpet, rather than under the car. Any hints/suggestions/warnings? What can I cover the wires with to minimize the chance of wearing through and grounding out. I want to do this soon, while the weather is pleasant, and the seats, carpet, etc. are all out.
I ran my cable over the tower just like you did. After that though, I put a hole/grommet in the firewall behind the tower, where it was hidden, and ran the cable inside. If you pull the kick panel and door sill, you can run the wire behind the fender and into the channel under the sill plate. When the channel reaches the rear of the door, you can push the cable under and behind the rear side panels into the space behind the rear fender. This is then open to the trunk and the cable goes right over the rear wheel well to the battery. Much more secure IMO than running it under the car. In the future, I think I am going to just put my solenoid in the trunk too. That way I can just run the cable forward, through the firewall hole, and then down to the starter. Totally hidden then...
I have used a company called KWIK WIRE to wire my 1965 mustang and my friends 1969 carmaro and plan on using it on the maverick. they are preaty comparible to painless but they are alot cheeper well they were a year or so ago. The 14 circuit i put in the carmaro was 190.00. here is the web sight www.kwikwire.com there phone number is 1-920-921-2637. Not only can you get the standred harness they will make any thing you need any way you need it. just thought i would pass it along.
ratio, thanks for the suggestion. I have the carpet out and see the hollow tube to run it through, just didn't know for sure where it came out and how to get into the trunk. Sounds WAY easier than what I anticipated. HOW MUCH??? $475, but yes, much cheaper than paying someone to rewire it, and WAY CHEAPER than replacing the car when it catches on fire after a major short. Cool thing is all the wires will match the colors in the original wiring diagram, and even better, a bladed fuse holder, not the crappy glass tube fuses that I keep breaking when I try to pry them out. I figured I would mount a plastic box, maybe yank one out of another car in the junk yard, and put all the relays and stuff inside it, and the solenoid. Then you will see just the loom coming out, and it can split to it's respective powered devices somewhere out of sight. OOps, hit send and found that stangclone and posted while I was typing, didn't mean to sound like I was ignoring you. Will check that site out asap...gotta be cheaper than the Painless. But, I know Painless has a good reputation, and I might be able to get the parts cheaper through my "connections" (pun intended )
heres an idea scott , im trying some of it on my car http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/CustomWiring.html
I like the idea of running harness through the frame. Wire management will definately be a problem with my car. There will be alot of wiring, and I want to see as little of it as possible... I wonder if a harness could be ran from the trunk, up over the rear wheel well, down into the rocker panel and over into the front frame rail? I'm going to have to look at my rusted out parts car and see how all that comes together up at the torque box area.
Jamie, I think that is what we are talking about here...or at least the way I am picturing it in my head. Let me check out these couple of threads...
Eddie and 73, thanks for the links. Really good stuff there. I don't mind having a couple wires showing, but I think that where the starter solonoid is, I will put a relay box right there and minimize most of what is showing. I will look more into hiding all those wires in the engine bay as well. Looks nice and clean...
