I would like to up the c.i. of my 351-w H/P engine.Who sells a bottom end kit? How much do they run? Is there anything special that I should know about? Any help would be great! I KNOW I HAVE GREAT SUPPORT BASE!
3.85 crank , stock rods , stock 302 pistons Parts are very cheap , the crank will be more than everything else but its about the same as a rebuild
than what ? stock rods , stock 302 pistons they are pretty much dirt cheap, eagle and Scat are expenisve with some of their parts
Since you are in Florida you should check out ProPower. www.propowerparts.com Great stuff and very sharp people. If you decide to go with the 393" setup you need to make sure you have enough cylinder head to feed that thing. At a bare minimum.....Windsor Sr heads with at least a 2.05" valve. Although the 2.08 would be better.
393w doesn't require a kit. Just the crank. Then you just buy 302 pistons instead of the 351w pistons you would have bought for your build.
A little info on the 393w...from experience! I found that the stock rods will work fine...most of the time. If you want to make some serious power, look into some H beams or at the very least a set of SIR Eagle rods which are cheap but quite a bit stronger than the stockers....even stronger than the stock "football" rods (truck rods that have the football shaped rod bolts). The truck rods will break and it's only a matter of time...they all break at the big end just under the little bump where there is normally an oil hole on the outside of the rod. Many people will argue this but I can almost guarantee a rod will break eventually..might take 10 years, might take 10 minutes. Also, if you're going to run a good cam (like upwards of .650" lift) sometimes the stock rods will hit the lobes. Not always though. Mine did, so I had to grind the sides of the rods off a little, which does not compromise strength. It just lightens up the big end a little. Then, not all 302 pistons will work with all cranks. Most of the time a "shelf" cast, hyperutectic, or even some cheaper forged pistons will hit the crank counterweights at or near bottom dead center. Just a couple things to watch out for.... That said, the 393's are torquey and you don't HAVE to run good head..but it helps. I have a friend that ran one in a hay truck with stock unported/stock valve 351w late model heads and it ran fine. Had the bottom end power of a 460 with the weight of a 351w, which was exactly what he was looking for. I have built 2 or 3 of them. All had Scat cranks. All used stock rods, 2 used stock style cast 302 pistons...and we had to grind the counterweights down a little to clear the pin boss on the pistons. The other one was the one I used in my Maverick a few years ago...stock rods (ground on the sides to clear the cam), Scat crank, and SRP flat tops designed specifically for a 393...which had already been clearanced near down on the bottom for crank clearance. SRP has since superceded those pistons to also fit the 302..and I ran the exact same set in my old Mustang 5.0. Other than those small issues, the one I had in the Maverick was a running SOB with the Victor Jr heads, 260-264 @ .050" solid roller with .672" lift on both sides. Ran some 6.60's with a 850 carb on gas until one of the stock rods let go and grenaded the whole engine, heads and all. About the only thing salvageable were 6 pistons, intake, cam (oddly enough), lifters, and everythign outside the engine (carb, etc). Even got the torque converter and front pump of the powerglide transmission. I saved $150 by using stock rods but it ended up costing me about 3 grand to rebuild. All that said, if I was to do another one, I'd do a 408 before I did a 393. They are just a real sweet running windsor by design and I've never seen one I didn't like. The one I run now is about .8 quicker in the 1/8 than the 393 was with the exact same heads, intake...but with more cam, more compression and on alcohol rather than gas.
He asked who sells a bottom end kit. Excuse me for my answer. More affordable than Callie cranks and Oliver rods etc. If this is a budget build, then go with stock off the shelf or out of a junk yard stuff.
Eagle sells a crank. I happen to be assembling one. We do have some clearence issues though. summit racing
One thing I forgot to mention (sorry if I seem like I'm hijacking) is that when the 393 let go, I put together a stock crank, stock stroke, stock rod 351w (with a little more compression) and it ran just as good, if not better, than the 393 did. If you're on a tight budget, it might be worth just sticking with a stock stroke & putting some ca$h into the heads. Just some ideas, FWIW
Thanks forum Bro"s for the insight! Im glad that some of you guys have paved the way with increased cube tech. The clearance problemed areas will no doubt be checked and rechecked. That is why I thought a kit might be the way to go, as some of the tolorance problems may or would have been addressed.
