It appears to me that you will have some structrual integrity problems. The original placement of the springs allowed the vhicle to ride on the frame rail centerline. By off setting this you have dramitically changed what is carrying the sprung weight......I would say drag racing only that would be fine. Street/long term use I await the results. Interesting nonetheless....I realize the a rm is still centerline but the leaverage is still added.....I also have visions of coil bind in my head....
Hmm...interesting theory, but my argument would be that the car is held in the air by three points of contact on the front suspension. The coil spring, the upper a-arm mounting pivot and the lower a-arm mounting pivot. If this were a problem, how would all those cars out there utilizing the M2 front suspension get away with having the spring outboard of the frame? I've heard the argument that the M2 suspension is a problem because the frame rails weren't built to hold the car up, although the sheet metal around it was. I have a problem with that since there are so many conversions and so many different cars that utilize them. I believe that they've proven themselves. On mine, I'm using the same mounting points and support structures just moving the spring out about half the diameter of the coil. Time will tell, but I think that this is going to work fine. Oh and I did check the total travel for coil bind (theoretically since it's not welded in yet) and that is not an issue.
The MII suspension is a different beast all together. Think of it this way. Remove that spring and what happens? Those other 2 points of "support" collapse but you can remove the bolts that hold either arm in place and it will still stay supported. It's a pivoting point and IMO not a support. I'm not saying it won't work. In fact I applaud your efforts. You stepped up and are doing something. I am in the process of making a rack and pinion conversion so I have studied up alot on this. BTW the rack deal is a pain in the arse but I have things "figured out". I am also adapting newer mustang gt brakes to work on maverick drum spindles. I have lotsa ideas and slowly but surely things are comig around. I am watching your progress with much interest. Lance
One down...one to go... Hey Guys, Well here is the first tower. I gained two inches at the top and at least two and a half on the bottom. I still need to grind down the welds still, but I think that this is probably stiffer than stock since most of the welds are lap joints welded on both sides. I'll get some more pics when I've got it all ground down and assembled again.
The welds are a little rough but it looks like you got full penetration. Now would be a good time to perform the Shelby Drop (lowering the upper control arm mounting holes one inch) to improve your steering control.
Already got the shelby drop in place, you can't see the old holes because I already filled them. And I know that I am by no means a welding expert. I can stick two pieces of metal together but that's the best I hope for. I know the welds are ugly but those were the butt welds and I figure that's why they make grinding wheels.
Yep. I would say that is a true statement right there. I can't wait to see what the finished product looks like.
Concerning the welds.....I've done worse on occassion However some tracks will not certify a car or pass tech when welds pertaining to supports/bracing have been ground down. It will not show penetration at that point and the overall quality of the weld. I doubt you will have a problem since they will likely not tech your car hard unless you plan on going really fast!!!!! i'm still looking forward to more updates!!!!!!!
Strut rods and progress... Hi guys, Here is the latest update. I just tonight finished welding the second tower and filling holes in the fender aprons. Both roller bearing spring perches were completed last week. And my excitement for the night was installing the heim jointed strut rod assemblies that I built. I will tell you that the front suspension is completely changed with the addition of the roller perch and strut rods. For example, before I made these changes the only way I could move the front suspension was to put a jack under it to lift it. No exageration here. Now, it only takes two fingers lifting on the lugs. (Of course this is with the springs and shocks out in both tests.) I wish that I had measured the force before I rebuilt it, but take my word...it's like night and day. Oh and as for the distance between the towers now? It's 28" from tower to tower from the top to a place just above the upper a-arm. Well, I'll get some more pics after the welds are ground and painted with the motor in place. Oh and the strut rods? Maybe I've got $30 in materials into them!
Dang! Ran out of welding wire last night, so I couldn't finish. Got the 12 lb roll today! I won't run out so soon again, and maybe not at 11 pm!
