I need to know if I can remove the lower ball joint in my Maverick, without the spring coming out? From all the diagrams I’ve looked at, its really hard to say…
The lower control arm can be removed safely qute easily. Simply unbolt the ball joint from the spindle and all the other parts the lower control arm is bolted to. Sway bar, strut rod and frame. Usually people replace the entire lower control arm rather than just the ball joint as it is a fairly inexpensive part. A quick search of the online parts places failed to show anyone selling a replacement lower ball joint for a Maverick. Just lower control arms as a unit. Remeber that anytime you disassemble/reassemble your front end you must get it realigned by a good alignment shop.
I renently purchased lower control arms. There are, in fact. no listings for just the ball joint. The info you were given by our esteemed colleague is correct. NAPA sells them as well as others. If you cannot find them where you are, and I'd be surprised if you can't, I can get them for you.
Actually I have the lower ball joint for my Maverick… and I think it can be replaced with out replacing the entire control arm assembly. I just need to know if the spring will come out if I remove the old one?
its a hard job after you get the rivets out you have to get the spot weld off the pad the jont is made together i just got a new arm for 29.00 at auto zone you can change top and bottom with out the spring coming out good luck let us know how it truns out
I just did the lower control arm change out, it was a breeze.....wouldn't want to try the ball joint by itself....part was only $35 at the local AZ.
I have to replace the spring insulator… so I think I’ll replace both top and bottom control arms… when I replace the spring insulator some one told me I could put a grease nipple on there too… how would I go about putting a grease nipple on the spring insulator? Do I mount it coming out from the top of the spring insulator?
The spring insulator is a rubber or plastic part designed to stop metal to metal contact between the spring and the top of the shock tower. This is not a greasable part. The upper control arms, however, would last a lot longer if you install the grease zerk fittings into the cap on either end of the pivot shaft. This will require 90 degree fittings as the space on each end is rather tight. Since you are replacing the upper control arms anyway, this is extremely easy to do at the same time. The other point on your suspension that can cause terrible squeaking is the spring perch. This piece has a rubber bushing with a shaft though it. This bushing becomes aged and worn allowing metal to metal contact and a terrible racket. Be sure to check these and replace as needed.
