clutch linkage

That makes me wonder: Why not just go to a hudraulic clutch set up???

 

I would think that this is cheaper and easier to install. I haven't searched to see if anybody has put a hydraulic clutch in a Maverick and I by no means know anything about hyd. clutches, but it would seem to me that could be something else in the way for headers.

 

How can this be done with the stock bellhousing? The main thing I don't like about mustangsteve's cable clutch is the cost of the scattershield ($400) so if I can use the stock bell housing that would be a big plus.

 

You can have the same pivot ball, which is the key to this technique, welded into your stock housing. I'm sure you can find someone who can weld aluminum with a TIG welder. As thick as the aluminum bellhousings are, someone with a MIG setup for aluminum could weld it info you.

 

Cool I'll have to talk to my buddy at work that has a welder. Thanks for all the info

 

The C4 cable will reach the speedo output on the tranny, but it will not live.
The cable is too short and the turn in the cable is too radical.
Mine worked for a short time. It was very bouncy and seemed in a bind.
Then it just stopped working.
My 3 speed cable on the 72 is even shorter than the 75 cable, so it's not even hooked.

IMO a 4 speed Mustang cable would be fine to use.
I don't know for sure, but it stands to reason.

 

Makes sense. For that matter, one out of a Fairlane or Torino would work as well.

 

Mcleod makes a hydraulic resease bearing for ford t-5 trannys,and I think they have a retro fit kit for t-10s'.If anything I would think this would create less problems with header fitment and clearance,not to mention being able to use your original bell housing.Mustangs unlimited sells a kit with all the parts to convert to a hudraulic set up.400 to 550 for the kit depending on application.

 

I'm putting a 500 HP 351W in the '73. I've got to use a scatter shield and the $200 for the cable conversion fits my wallet better.

 

Yeah price is a big reason I still have the original stuff on mine.Once I re-redo my engine I may have to invest in something better.But not yet.

 

What about just drilling the bellhousing and tapping it for the pivot ball. Seems like it would be easier than trying to weld steel to aluminum.

 

I think that may be the way to go.I dont see welding steel to aluminum as working to well.Grind a slot accross the back of the ball stud so you can turn it with a screwdriver to make adjustments from outside the housing instead of taking the bell housing off to adjust the height.Could work well.