I have a mild 347: AFR 185 heads, about 10.0:1 compression, the cam specs 240/248 duration @ .050 and .540/.544 lift The radiator is only two years old can calcium build up to the point where it won't cool that fast. If so, what do you use to flush it out?
bleed it again... just flush it with water... you don't want that flushing craplo in your block.... remove it if you have too... or have a rad shop tank it! btw run this thermostat http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG%2D4363&autoview=sku it will help alot! btw this the first time you've ran the car? or did this just start out of the clear blue sky?
STEPHAN Before you pull the radiator try this with eng. runing hood open hand operate the throttle to 2000 to 2500rpm's watch the lower hose if the lower hose suck together ( closeing the opening ) you have plug radiator If not you will need to burp the cooling system Remove the heater hose from the intake manifold . Put a short peace of hose on nipple raiseing it above the top of the highest point on the radiator to get ALL of the air out the system . If this do'nt work and you still have steam pockets you may have lost a head gasket . hope this helps JAY
I have had the motor together for about a year, this is my first engine build, I had other issues (learning experiences) that I worked out first when money allowed. The engine has even been taken back down to the short block because of a knock (rod hitting the pan) It has always seemed to run warmer than it should but since it is 110* outside it has really gotten bad about running hot. Also it usually only gets driven 10 minutes at a time as I live and work on a military base and have no need to go off base very often. I did get one of those thermostats and a new water pump (under warrenty, so it was free) It seemed to help but after driving it for about 20-30 minutes it still got up to 220* but it took that whole time I was driving to get that hot so it is doing better. It started to come down a little when I drove through base housing to my house 15 MPH for a 1/4 mile. I am going to see if I can burb the system again and see what it does. Another question, could it running lean and causing the heating up issue?
I watched the lower hose and it it did not collaspe. I also made a spring out of a coat hanger to keep it from collasping. I tried doing what you said with the heater hose, should water being coming out the hose I put on the nipple at the intake and the hose I took off the nipple?
Well I replaced the water pump, themostat, and the belt now it runs about 205* at cruise speeds and only reached 215* at a red light. It was about 95* outside(weather.com says it feels like 112* outside) I think I can live with those temps, a whole lot better than the 220-240* it was running, but I see an aluminum radiator going into the car when I can afford it. Thanks for all the help.
if you can check for exaust gasses in the radiator. i had a similar problem. mine would idle fine until it reached appx 180 then shoot up like a rocket to 230-240. turned out to be a small crack in the head gasket that didn't appear until it reached around 180 then it would open and let exaust gasses into the coolant. took me almost a year and alot of money to find. exaust gas test can be done at any radiator shop. most of the time for free or under $20. i live in fla too so i know how hard it is to keep these cars cool.
I use one of these http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/UV-550000.html It pulls a vacuum on you system so you can verify you don't have a leak as well as fills the system and makes sure you don't have air pockets.
