Comp recommended this cam for my setup, any pros/cons?

Or at least install a new high volume pump, and a HD pump drive too. With loose bearings, it wouldn't hurt things. And run nothing but 15-40 diesel spec oil with lots of zinc.

 

So what you thought was carb issues before was most likely the cam going away.So look at the bright side thats one less thing to worry about!

On a side note i know of a few guys including me with 8:1 compression and good size cam that sound pretty good,mine just smoothens out fairly quick.Around 1200 rpm.Hell i would just stab a new cam in it for now then look around for a 87-93 5.0 Mustang engine,even just a short block( 9.5:1 forged pistons from factory,Roller cammed) and build a little stouter motor and still be able to drive your car untill the new one is almost finished.Take yours off the road for a week and swap over your current top end,cruise it the next weekend!!

 

Oil pressure in itself will have nothing to do with cam lobe and/or lifter failure! There is no pressure between the lobe and the lifter so what would low oil pressure have to do with it?

The cam gets oiled by splash from the rods, crank, and SOME drainback through the valley. That's all. That is exactly why manufacturers tell you to keep the RPM up during the break in period. This makes darn sure that there is sufficient oil being splashed onto the camshaft to help reduce friction as much as possible. You don't have to mess with it if it's a roller cam though.....But that said, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a flat tappet cam other than the misery of a failed cam and lifter. That can be almost avoided by using a service that is offered by Cam Research. They'll break in the cam & lifters for you so you just have to drop it in the block and go pound on it.

BTW, maybe it's just been my luck, but I've never had anything good so say about Comp. I've had at least 3 cams from them, 2 of them had junk lifters (would make noises most of the time) and the other was a solid roller that just didn't perform worth a crap...even though it was supposed to be a one-off custom cam. The cam that replaced that solid roller is a custom cam that was built FOR my engine, and it was .4 faster in the 1/8 mile, idled better, starts better, more low end and a heck of a lot more top end. That said, they DO make good stuff, but I've just not had any good luck with them. But they are just a couple hours' drive from me so if I need something right away I just go pick it up.

 

It does when there's not enough moving around in the motor to start with. Splash has to come off somewhere and if that "somewhere" isn't getting enough to start with, the cam and lifters won't either.

 

That would be nice.

I was told to go with Lunatti, and have "connections" with Erson. I thought that Comp had a good reputation, and I like the fact that they take all the guesswork out and give me the lifters, springs, everything for a set price. I would rather have a double ROLLER chain, and may buy that separately.

Anyone else recommend other than Comp? This is why I asked this before I buy.

 

Scott, the part number you posted is just a Cam and lifter kit which doesn't include springs. Most of the big companies offer cam and lifter kits.

I have an Ultradyne Cam in mine which is now www.bulletcams.com

 

I have a comp cam in mine and the lifters in it make a lot of noises too.

 

According to the documentation in post #1

Hmmm, I know my lifters on my old cam (edelbrock) were noisy, even before the failure. Are they all, or are we noticing a pattern against Comp...

 

Never mind, I was looking at the 31-238-3 part number.

31-238-3 is Cam only
CL31-238-3 is a Cam and Lifter kit
K31-238-3 is a complete kit

 

They have a software program that they enter all of your info into and it picks which of their grinds is best for your application and intended purpose. You can even buy the software on their website and play around with it. I've never heard anyone who wasn't satisfied with one of Comps properly chosen XE cams.

 

That is comforting to hear.

 

I've always used Crane Cams. Never had any problems with any of them.

 

Cam cores are only manufactured by 2 or three companys,and most performance cam companys use the same core supplier then they grind them to their specs.Same as Lifters only a couple of manufacturers of them too.....Just a little more useless knowledge i have stored away in this melon of mine

 

cam

Idle thing I'm not so sure about...a bit higher insures adequate oil pressure. Cam sounds like it would be ok, no sense putting in one that the heads can't handle. My only real piece of advise here is ..use only valvoline racing oil or the Rotella they will reccomend and buy 3 qrts of Comps break in additive. Set the lash a bit loose during break in, 0 plus 1/4 turn and use the other 2 qrts for the next 2 oil changes. Otherwise you may get the chance to change cams sooner than you'd like. My rolller cam is 224/232 @.050 and 542/563 at the valve with 1:60 rocker arm ratio...nice lumpy idle and pretty solid down low in the 2500-5000 range.

 

I bet it is "pretty solid" with a blower helping it out

Good idea on the 2 extra quarts for the next oil changes. I think that is what got me on this one. Used it on breakin, and I am almost positive that the next 3 changes had the low zinc count. I just used castrol, and even walmart brand for a short period between breakin and the next 100 miles (just to clean out all the breakin lube and any gunk that might have gotten in there).