I have my new block/rod/piston assembly on the engine stand and I don't want rust to start. I poured a little oil into the top of each cylinder, but am worried about the lower half getting rusty. Can I pour oil into the lifter valley to lube the bearings? Or, can I put a tub of oil under the oil pickup and spin the oil pump at the distributor, will that oil it all if there is no cam/lifters/heads on? Maybe turn the engine upside down and pour oil on it while rotating it? I want to make sure it is all coated and protected for the next few months while I collect parts and reassemble.
Did you put the motor together with assembly lube ? if so it should be ok, I took a large bath towel sprayed with WD 40 wiped the cylinders down, deck etc and covered the block with it for about 6 months, no rust.
You will probably be OK just coating everything with oil. The store the engine in a plastic bag along with some desiccant to absorb any moisture.
The rods and pistons, caps, etc were pre-assembled (O'Reilly long block) and has been run for a couple of hours. The rest I will assemble with lube as I get the parts. I picked up a mustang magazine today and he said for LONG term rebuilds, assembly lube hardens and cakes, and could clog your oil pickup. He recommended trans fluid??? Specifically for cylinders. I want it lubed enough so that I can turn it over by hand several times as I assemble the rest of it, dial in my cam, etc.
lucas oil stabiliser.Its thick and gooey and will stay where you put it for a long time.WD-40 for storage is good too.Spray it all like your painting it,then bag it.
Well...long story made very short... I turned the motor over upside down, poured (literally) 2 quarts into the crank bearings and the bottoms of the cylinders. Turned the motor maybe 1-2 revs, then upright and poured oil into all cylinder tops, and turned it another rev. Blew the crap out of the water passages, put on the oil pickup and oil pan, and left it upside down. Then put a garbage bag (Hefty Cinch-sak) over the whole thing for now. I will put in cam, timing chain/sprockets, etc this next week, and put heads on soon afterwards. That should keep all the sensitive parts rust free. Then time to paint...
I just sprayed mine with a good coating of wd-40, and kept a bag on it, everytime I was done working on it, resprayed, no rust
In a perfect (financially) world, I would have it all back together by this spring. We all know that the world of personal finances isn't too predictable. So it could take a little longer. I have a couple of guys donating parts (I cannot thank you guys enough) so that will speed it up. Also have some parts for sale with prospective buyers to help with my purchases. I will be buying a new dampener, flywheel, and I cannot see putting it back on without a stall converter (probably the biggest chunk of change). And, I REALLY should have the trans rebuilt before I put it all back together, but I should be able to reassemble and drive it easy while saving up for trans work.
That is where I am today. Going to try to paint, now I have to get the oil off the soon-to-be-painted surfaces...
I have a 200 I6 short block sitting in the engine bay of one of my parts cars, which is it's "shelter" from rain and stuff. Every few months I dump some transmission fluid on each of the pistons and turn the engine over by hand. Been sitting there in that car since November 27, 2005 and has no rust in the cylinders or on the deck (which gets covered in transmission fluid when each piston reaches TDC). I also have another 200, the one that is currently in my daily driver, that did develop some minor rust in one of the cylinders after sitting for 4 months. I sprayed PB Blaster in that cylinder and turned it over by hand. Have had no issues with it since, have put 2,100 miles on it.
I was under the impression at the time I started this thread that this engine might be under construction for up to 6 months, but it is coming together much more quickly. I should have the bottom end closed up tomorrow (oil pan painted, installed, etc.) and heads and intake will go on in the next few days after I get them off my old block and cleaned up (and new valve springs, locks/retainers...)
