OK so i'm heading to kragen later on to buy a rebuild kit for my holley 4160 #6919. My problem was that the float were set wrong and fuel kept on spilling out of the vents. I want to know what a a good starting point(turns) to adjust them? Thanks
I had the same issue on my carb after i rebuilt it... I just wound up pulling the float bowls off, and tipped it upside down and adjusted the float till it was about 3/8 to 1/2 inch off the top of the bowl.. That should be a good starting point so the thing doesnt puke fuel all over the back of your intake hahha... Then just take the sight plugs out, and fine tune it until fule just barley spills out the hole when you rock the car back and forth slightly.
i adjust mine with the car running. open the sight plug and adjust til the fuel just starts to run out then put the plug back in.
On the rebuild, I would put new needle an seats in, with bowls upright, gently push up, adjust so the float is level or at the same plane as the bowl. This is just my way to get a fast ROUGH adjustment, then like Don says, turn pumps on or start car an just let trickle out of sight hole. Side note,,them clear sight plugs are crap! Fog up, get hard, break!
You may have a float that is soaking gas into it. Check the weight against a new one. If you adjust the float with the external adjustment so that no gas comes out the sight plugs then it is adjusted properly. If it runs good for a while then starts getting rich again replace the float with a new one.
That's what i did when i rebuilt it and it worked well,i couldn't get the car to start because i got my first carb fire. i was hoping to work on it yesterday but we has a long rainstorm so all i could do is sleep and todays my last day off so i might try to get some work done.If i finish my other tasks first.
To adjust, remove the bowl, invert it, and adjust the needle/seat till the top of the float is paralell with the top of the bowl. I do this on every Holley and rarely ever have to adjust em on the engine.
Yep, better to start with the floats low and raise them then to start with them adjusted too high. When you have to lower them it takes forever for the engine to burn the extra fuel at idle speed.
You are better off to adjust it to specs in the first place. Guessing about what it should be is a good way to wash your cylinders with raw gas or run your engine lean enough to burn pistons. Thats why we have specs.
Well the float trick worked great and nw the engine is up and running awesome and it sounds totaly different and it idles great at 600rpm and goes right up to 4K in a secondyahoo:
AHH the memories, I had a 6919 in my younger years. Was a good carb. After i figured the reverse idle out. I usually just turn the float bowl upside down, And get the float level, This is usually a good starting point for initial float settings. But wait does the 6919 have a external adjustment? If not i would have to dig out some old books for the proper setting. Let us know how it turns out.
For the initial float settings I use a 1/2" drill bit as a spacer between the top of the bowl and the float. Then set the floats with the engine running. Works every time.
i just figured this outafter reading the PHR article were it said that emissions carb have reverse idle....i always wondered why it ran so rich and it does have external adjustments i'm just waiting for a vacumm gauge right now, so i can get the right power valve and set the idle mixtures.
