One more thing...polish the combustion chamber?

So, what happens to the bronze as it wears down...isn't that going to end up in my bearings?

 

It just ends up in the bottom of the pan, or in the oil filter. It's really hard to actually get metal into bearings since only filtered oil goes into bearings. It's also very fine, almost like dust, and since it's so soft, it won't really mar a crank or anything either. No worries.

Or, you could just put a hardened gear on there and put it all to bed. Any gear off a late model roller motor would work just fine. Cam only spins at half speed and there's no load on the thing so they last forever. The last one I took apart barely had any witness lines on it.

 

Hmmm. I will keep an eye out for one.

So, what would happen if I used my old iron gear? Just larger chunks in the oil filter? or damage to the cam?

 

Using an Iron gear on a roller cam probably will be ok, but I wouldn't bet my life on it. You won't get large chunks, just iron dust. Not the worst thing ever, but I wouldn't call it something that you could build and forget about.

The way you tell if the gear is wearing, without taking anything apart, is that your timing will start to retard. If you take the cap off, there will be extra play in the rotor. Of course, you can always remove the dizzy and inspect it visually for wear.

 

Well, I will be looking around the junk yards for a new dizzy, then pop off the gear. Does it matter if it is an HEI, points, etc as long as it is from a 5.0 roller?

 

Shouldn't matter. As long as it's a roller. All the gear profiles should be the same as far as I know.

 

By the way, I dropped off that first ported and polished head at a machine shop and asked the guy to be nice and "please don't laugh, it is my first P&P job". He said it actually turned out pretty good, seems to be opened well, and only recommended that I use a different sanding bit to further polish the exhaust side.

he also said that he was impressed with my flexcore welding job in there (considering that cheap tools i had at hand), and thinks it will hold up just fine.

I asked if he could square up the bottom by milling 5-10 thousandths, and he said he would do .010, so I am going to run over with the other head and have it milled .010 also, since the machine will already be set up for that head.

He also said i did a decent job with polishing the domes, in a way that would keep my compression up but also clean up the casting trash, and again said to try this other sanding bit on these areas for further polishing.

So, looks like this project is shaping up nicely...

I am a lucky one I didn't totally screw that head up...

 

On a set of iron heads, polishing can help with detonation. But I have to wonder though, if it's really worth the time? Especially considering that there are some really cheap aluminum heads on the market now that will run circles around most iron heads in every aspect.

Dang that reminds me I'm gonna have to dig out those old iron castings that I had done up a LONG time ago...all ported, studs, guideplates, and get 'em cleaned up & see if they're worth selling. Good heads...I ran them on a turbo 302 at one time and they really did a good job! Kind of makes me wish I had another Maverick to use them on. Like I need another project.

 

Honestly, hitting the domes was one of the quickest parts of this job. Took less than 5 minutes each...That casting roughness was not very deep and came off pretty quickly.

 

If doing it yourself, it all depends on how much value you place on your time. If paying someone to do it, much better off with the aftermarket aluminum route. There is also the personal satisfaction in doing it yourself....which in alot of cases, means alot.......however, it is not satisfying when the guy with the aluminum heads wins the race.

 

I don't race, except against myself...So that won't be a problem.

I have always wanted to do a set of iron heads, and since I am so cheap...

 

Here is where I am now...http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=398658#post398658