ignition?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mavmanerick, Jan 1, 2008.

  1. mavmanerick

    mavmanerick burnin' rubber since '90

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    whats the cheapest way to get electronic iginition? the cheapest way ive found is the electronic point eliminator kit.. my dad had one on his old ford truck and said it was a big upgrade.. i really dont wanna spend $300 on a DUI..
     
  2. shaunh82

    shaunh82 Member

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    get an electronic distributor, you'll be much happier than retrofitting a points type I think
     
  3. mavmanerick

    mavmanerick burnin' rubber since '90

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    can you get just a distibuter.. can you show or tell me a good one?
     
  4. Bluegrass

    Bluegrass Jr. mbr. not really,

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    Your a little mixed up.
    A distributor by it'self is not the electronic ignition unless you go with an HEI conversion..
    Two way to go. A Duraspark factory stock distributor or a Pertronix internal conversion, for lower cost.
    Then you need the factory Duraspark electronic coil control box.
    A true electronic ignition driver box is an ignition amplifier. Works quite differently than the factory control box..
     
  5. actionrpm

    actionrpm Differential specialist

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    Get a factory Ford Duraspark from a newer model,grab the little short harness and module box,cheap,reliable,simple.
     
  6. mavmanerick

    mavmanerick burnin' rubber since '90

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    newer cars had these stock? like i could find one in a junkyard?
     
  7. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    I'll second the Duraspark thing.
    Most aftermarket amplifier boxes and many distributors are based on the DS, if not fairly blatant copies.
    The box with the blue wire grommet is the basic.
    The red needs a specific coil.
    The yellow grommet has a variable retard function you can adapt for your own uses.
    They all have the ability to retard the timing for easy starting if you hook the function up.
    Any 302 DS distributor will work fine in a 289-302.
    Any DS system works best with at least a stock DS coil. (other than red grommet)
    The red grommet is a Duraspark 1 system made for Kali and has a variable dwell function that can overwork a run of the mill DS coil.

    Edit:
    Forgot to mention that there are many versions of the vacuum advance can.
    I went to Advance and asked for a 68 Fairlane vacuum can and got a really simple, adjustable can to replace the bulky retard can that was original.
    The new one can be adjusted with an allen wrench, and only has a single nipple for advance. (the double nipple type have retard for emissions)
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2008
  8. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    Until the late 70s...
    Pretty easy to find.
    Even trucks had them, but the harness will need modified to fit a car.
    Even the car harness needs fitting into a points car, but the truck is more involved.
     
  9. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

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    The mav is gone but i'm still here!
    i found one in a 78 LTD wagon for my uncles falcon, but he decided not to buy it, takes like 2 minutes to take out wish i would have bought it could have sold it here:slap:
     
  10. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    When you're junkin', grab every one you can.
    They are going to be in the yards less and less...
     
  11. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Easiest and cheapest ? Pertronix I or a Crane XR-1. Two wires to hook up, both to the coil. I have a Duraspark in the 77 Comet, Crane XR-1 in my 89 Ranger's 5.0, previously had a Pertronix II in there, before that the Pertronix I. Which is best ? The Pertronix II and the XR-1. For some reason the Duraspark in the Comet takes longer to clear the plugs when warming up, this might be related to it not being driven as much as the Ranger though. The Ranger as of right now has sat for three days and it's 40* outside. I can go out and without ever touching the gas pedal, crank it for two seconds and it'll idle with no choke, whatsoever (no choke there to use anyway) The Comet takes a few seconds with the pedal till it'll idle. The difference between the Pertronix I & II is the "II" doesn't develop a mis-fire after a carb "hiccup" backfire. When the "I" does this, it takes a restart to cure the mis-fire.
     
  12. d_chavez

    d_chavez Member

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    i had problems with the duraspark ignition so i just switched to the pertronix points eliminator and i havent had a problem anymore.
     

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