This is the newer starter from the 93 Mustang GT as in this thread, and wired up as in this thread...http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=40882&highlight=starter+Mustang It starts up just fine, but after I let off the key, it hangs on and keeps running for a second or two afterwards. Wired up wrong or something else wrong?
I think that is a chevy remedy, some fords... I think we have the bolt it up style. If i'm not mistaken, the starter fits into a certain spot sorta like a slot. Maybe the bendex or starter shaft is bad...
Thanks Frank, I will try that out and see if it solves the problem. Wish it was something OTHER than the starter. It is much easier to get to, but still a hassle with the headers and all...
I have the same problem on a stock starter, old one went out, had lifetime waranty so got new replacement / plus a new silonoid ,starter would run for a second after it cranks so took it back off,Autozone cheaked it and said it was good so put it back on and drove it to store and let them hear it, they said probadlly silonoid so put my old one back on, didn't help,took new silonoid back and exchanged it , installed it , didn't help, now they say it is my switch but every thing was ok till I changed starter, I also put all new cables on it from starter to battery + and -
Like Frank (and who doesn't?), when it happened to me once, "a" wire was on the wrong side of the solenoid.
The starter has to be wired the way Ford did it in the later cars . If it worked the shortcut way do you think they would have wasted the money for the extra wire?
This happened a few months back to me on my 74 (using stock starter, replaced with new one and new solenoid). I had the guys test the new starter, I tested the solenoid myself (I got a few years of electronics tech under my belt) and everything worked fine. I couldn't figure it out 'til my next door neighbor whose about 80 years old told me to get some steel wool and wd-40 and wire brush the crap out of all the contacts and to check beneath the negative/positive wire insulation for corrosion. I'll be damned if he didn't nail it on the head. Beneath the positive wiring insulation was corrosion and my contacts weren't in the best condition either. Bought some new wiring and it's been working great since. From what he said, this happens because the solenoid receives not enough voltage (either from dirty contacts or corroded wires)... I've done electronics for years and never heard of such a thing, but he was right! You'll know if this is the case just eyeballing it
I think that only works for us drag racer I have mine shimmed..... but I am sure its not supposed to be..... Autozone/Pepboys/O-reilly's carry a starter shim for a SBF.
If you have your starter wired as specified in method 2 it will over run as you are describing. Please wire as shown here. Best regards, Tony Reiners