OK... I finally got back into town and called the guy that does the drive shaft work. Both estimates were VERY reasonable. Balancing my steel shaft $55 and would be done while I wait, 1-2 hours (which is good because it is located on the far other side of Houston!) Attaching the correct yoke and shortening the aluminum shaft is only $110 But I talked with the guy a little more and described my use, and he recommended that I stick with the steel shaft, primarily because he says that any little ding in the aluminum will cause it to go out of balance. He also said that the steel would be stronger and likely last longer in the end. Only benefit he gave for the aluminum shaft is possible better gas mileage. So it looks like steel shaft getting balanced, unless anyone on here can talk me out of it...
"Balancing my steel shaft $55 and would be done while I wait, 1-2 hours". i got an est. of $350-$450 to do one... no wait, come back in 3-4 days... ......
For less than $350, you could ship your shaft to me, and I can wait 2 hours while they balance it. Then ship it back. We might be able to pull that off in less than 4 days
They sell aluminum shafts that can handle like 800+ hp for Mustangs, so I don't think you will have a problem with a quality aluminum shaft in your car. To me, aluminum would be the only way to go. Less rotating mass is always a benefit, be it for economy or performance. My uncles '00 F150 has an aluminum shaft. That truck has well over 300,000 miles on it pulling trailers and cars and all kinds of stuff with no problems.
Jamie, you said you used an aluminum from a mustang? What years fit? If I did that, it would be cheaper to buy it from a yard then have the one I have cut and fit for my car. The one I have will go to the swap meet, or I may put it up for sale here if anyone shows any interest. Would probably have to sell it locally or shipping would eat up any value.
I'm running an Aerostar aluminum driveshaft in my 66 Mustang coupe. Bought it for $25 from the j/y and had it shortened & balanced for another $100. Can't see it being that much different for a Mav. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet since the hydraulic clutch setup for the T5 swap has slowed me down
If I am not mistaken, Jamie said he pulled one off a late model mustang and it fit fine, just an inch or so too long. It would be nice to pull one for $25 and just slap it in!
I just put the ebay driveshaft I bought last week in the Comet yesterday. Fit's like a glove. Came of an 02 Stang with an AOD. 45.75" ctr to ctr on the U joints. Couldn't use the AOD slip yoke though. The splines are right, but the OD of the slip part is larger than a C-4 yoke. Next time I'll be more careful of buying used parts from up north though. Spent two hours getting the rust off that driveshaft. I figure it's about 2 lbs lighter now. Sort of a modern version of the old acid bath they gave race cars back in the day.
..I used the C4 driveshaft in my AOD with no problems... ...same OD... '02...AOD-E maybe... ...Frank...
Well he should consider himself lucky.My uncle works at a driveshaft shop and see's lots of aluminum shafts weekly with stretched u joint yokes,Shafts severly out of balance from no apparent reason and the oh so great Canadian road salt actually eats right through them mostly under the fiberglass insulation that some manufactuerers put on them.The shafts you see that can handle 800 hp are not made out of the same low quality aluminum the factory shafts are made from.Thats why stock alum shafts are 4-5" around. Oh and Scott 50-60 bux is the going rate around here for a balance on a steel shaft so the shop you talked to is right on.
