Does anyone here have any experience with lead? I'd like to know if it will work with pot metal. Pot metal melts pretty easy.
Done the brazing with acetylene torch before. It works good on pin holes but it's almost like soldering more than welding.....the cleaner the better. Works real good on fresh sandblasted surface. Never tried the MAPP gas before. I don't know how it compares to acetylene in temperature. Cleaver
No it doesnt,I have tried a few times to lead pot metal,Lead wont stick to it very well.Lots of impurities in pot metal,not to mention that pot metal likes to deform at the temps required for lead to flow and stick well.Try to find a welding shop that can do molten zinc spraying(pot metal is mostly zinc)cant think of the name of the process but it works rather well for building up damaged areas and fills rust holes quite well in steel.I like lead.its fun.Good luck.
Dennis,, I have been thinking that JB Weld would work on that. Been wanting to try it myself, Just talked myself into it. Metal to Metal is also a great product, I think I would use that as the joining part, then use JB weld to seal it, grind it, spot bondo it, prime it, paint it and call it done. And hope it never cracks! Dan
Jb Weld Would JB WELD fillin in the holes I have without a lot of trouble? Would the durability be better than fiberglass? Would it be close to MIG welding it?
I have never used JB weld to fill holes. And any attempt to fill holes with fiberglass has lead to failure here in the rust belt. Sorry, cant advise you, I was just commenting on Mavaholics thought of joining the qtr end caps to the qtr so there would be no seam. But I am intrigued with Hawko's experience as stated earlier in this thread. Dan
Remember this tidbit, I used fiberglass cloth with Rust Bullet. I did not use fiberglass resin. That is a very big difference.
It's a competitor to POR-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. I made my decision to use Rust Bullet after talking to the technical folks at all three places a few times. I was just more impressed with the less prep work and more uses of the Rust Bullet. Read about it here. http://www.rustbullet.com Here is the e-mail I rec'd back in January 2006. Sorry, I don't have the photos he mentions anymore. Hello Terry, Thanks for contacting Rust Bullet. Here is some information to look over before using our product. The attached photo shows what Rust Bullet looks line applied over rusted metal. Use the Regular Formula (Gold Can) for floor pans ect. I sent you the camaro restoration photos also. Could I have some photos of your job before and after? Let me know. Bondo and Fiberglass: You can apply 2-3 coats of Rust Bullet to the rusted metal then apply your bondo or fiberglass over it. Add an additional coat of Rust Bullet over the applied bondo or fiberglass for added strength. As long as there is no rust under the present bondo, fiberglass or paint you can apply Rust Bullet over it as long as you scuff up the bondo, fiberglass or paint with some 100 or 150 grit sanding blocks. This will ensure that the Rust Bullet has a good base to adhere to. Rust Bullets natural color is Metallic Grey. It you desire to put on a colored top coat of your choice you would due it 24 hours after the last coat of Rust Bullet. Optimum drying time between coats of Rust Bullet is 2 to 4 hours. (When you can not transfer Rust Bullet to a gloved finger tip it is ok to apply an additional coat of Rust Bullet. A top coat color of your choice can be applied after 24hrs). Rust Bullet is moisture cured so high humid conditions accelerate the dry time. How Difficult is Preparation? Remove loose rust and loose paint. Remove loose mill scale by lightly scraping, sanding, or wire brushing. For very large jobs it would be best to media blast the area to be covered. All surfaces must be free of loose rust, paint, moisture, dirt, mildew, oily substances, wax, and loose particles. The recommended way to clean the surface is just wipe it down with some Xyelene, Acetone, or simply use soap and water. No additional surface preparation is necessary as Rust Bullet® bonds with the rust to form a super-tough, armor like coating. The surface to be coated must be completely dry. Why Do I Need to Apply Two Coats? The reason that at least 2 coats of Rust Bullet must be applied is because when Rust Bullet cures it releases carbon dioxide gas (wile Dehydrating the Rust) this gassing creates small pin holes in the coating. The second coat seals these tiny pin holes once and for all. If the pin holes were not sealed after the first coat air and moisture could penetrate the coating allowing rust and corrosion to form. Sincerely, Frank Ciglar V.P. Global Operations Rust Bullet, LLC Frank@RustBullet.com www.RustBullet.com
...Dennis, i used ...metal-to-metal... when i did the qrt.tips....on my first mav. Mike has the car now, you might see if he can give an update as to how they are holding up...4-5 yrs. later... ...these are the only 3 pics. i have of a car i spent...14k on... ...Frank...
Very interesting product.How does it react to polyester fillers(I couldnt find any info on that)on the site??I like eastwoods rust encapsulator,have never had a problem with it.They dont tell you what paints do or dont work with it for a top coat either.Very cool though.Thank you Hawkco.:HandshakePete.
I wonder how it would react to lead?? I like to metal finish my repairs.No body fillers that way.I see you edited your post,thanks for the extra info.I think I am going to contact them.
